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Happy eating,
Jon!




Saturday, April 26, 2008
The Brasserie by Phillipe Mouchel
With all the recent buzz at Crown including the opening of Bistro Guillaume it is very easy to look past the Brasserie; one of the more established restaurants located riverside at Crown. Headed by the famous Phillipe Mouchel, a chef well regarded in Melbourne food circles, the food here is well thought out, clever and delicious.

In my opinion it is one of Melbourne's premier French restaurants serving up refined food of the highest calibre. I have dined here a number of times over the past few months, enjoying some of the best dishes I have eaten anywhere, including a sublime tartare of tuna and beetroot, which is probably my dish of the year to date. The food seems to be evolving every time I visit as well. I no longer regard The Brasserie as merely good - it is outstanding.

I won't bore you with to much detail on the decor and service as I have reviewed the restaurant before. The set up is simple but classy, staff are friendly and efficient and the dining experience as a whole is first class. The restaurant is definitely a place I will continue to visit on a regular basis.

Some of the excellent things I have recently enjoyed:

Spanner Crab Cocktail ($22): A rather classy starter. In the bottom of the cocktail glass sits a cucumber jelly, follwed by the crab meat and a custard, served with some fried brioche croutes. Perfect flavours, and an excellent way to start a meal along with a glass of French.


Yellowfin tuna and beetroot tartare ($22): Absolutely sensational. Sashimi grade tuna diced, with beetroot chunks, fresh herbs and lime oil. It is sweet, delicate and certainly one of the best starters I have enjoyed this year.


Pan-roasted beef tenderloin with porcini cream and sautéed potatoes, beef jus ($37.50): Unforunately the picture doesn't do this dish justice. A perfect fillet of grass fed beef sits atop soft cubed potatoes, which have been sauteed in a porcini scented cream. The plate is finished with a rich beef jus, and some crispy potato crisps. Perfect.


Traditional topside wagyu steak tartare, French fries (150gr) ($35): One of the less attractive looking versions of tartare but the taste is amazing. So creamy and delicious. Served with a side of mesculun on the plate and a dish of excellent hand cut frites.
In the background: sauteed mushrooms with parisienne gnocchi ($8) - an excellent side dish.


Chilled green beans and tomato salad ($8.50): with a creamy dressing, boiled egg quarters and anchovies. Served chilled it makes an excellent side dish.


Desserts at The Brasserie are always a joy as well, especially when they involve chocolaate.

One offering I had to try was the Chocolate and raspberry macaroon with raspberry sorbet: I must firstly say that it wasn't as good as Duncan's amazing macaroons, but I definitely enjoyed it nonethless. It is the biggest macaroon I have seen and is well constructed with a raspberry creme as well as fresh berries. The accompanying sorbet is nice, though quite melted.


I should also mention that The Brasserie has one of Melbourne's best value lunch specials: $38.50 for two courses and a side dish. This allows you to choose any courses from the full a la carte menu, with the exception of a few premium dishes such as lobster and wagyu. The offer is valid daily, including weekends making it all the more attractive. Final words for a well chosen wine list, with a good, varied selection available by the glass.

The Brasserie receives a score of 15 out of 20 and was awarded one chefs hat in the 2008 Age Good Food Guide.

My score: 17/20 - Food: 9/10 Service: 4/5 Ambience: 4/5 - I think it is one of our best and it really deserves to be rewarded with two hat status in the upcoming guide.

The Brasserie has previously been reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here

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  posted at 6:01 PM  
  4 comments



4 Comments:
At April 27, 2008 at 1:17 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh, your wonderful pictures are making me hungry!

It's so interesting to read about restaurants all over the world from people who have been there. Thanks!

 
At May 18, 2008 at 1:05 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I hope you didn't eat all that on your own!!

And I agree with you - one day someone will explain to me why a restaurant as tired and idealess as Becco continues to get two hats, while this one still only gets one. They need to reverse that order (I was overseas for 6 years, came back, an Becco was completely unchanged - even copying ideas from other restaurants!). The service at the Brasserie tends to be, I guess, too casual, but I'm of the school where it's all about the food. The French wine by the glass are always impressively chosen also.

PS - I don't see how the new Bistro G 20 metres upriver can survive against the quality and price one gets at the Brasserie . . .

 
At May 18, 2008 at 1:13 PM, Blogger Jon! said...

hehe anon, I totally agree with you. And don't panic, that food is a spread of dishes from three different sittings. I've been waiting for the Brasserie to get 2 hats for ages but it doesn't look like its going to happen: I think its more to do with the Crown ownership.

I believe both the Brasserie and BG are great places to eat. I am loving the ambience of the bar at BG, but think the Brasserie is probably dihing out the superior food at better prices, and service has always been good, even if less formal than some of its peers. And the lunch special, well it will certainly keep me coming back.

 
At June 21, 2008 at 11:45 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

It's My Oncle :D

 

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