A few weeks back I decided to hit the city with friends Robert and Kat. Originally planning on having dinner at GA&S we didn't feel like waiting around, so strolled along the riverfront looking for other options. Rockpool was one possibility but it was also full so I decided that the Bistro Guillaume bar might be nice, so off we went occupying one of their snazzy leather booths. I won't go on much further about the setting as I have already reviewed the restaurant and bar before, but its just so well fit out and comfortable. Yes, its dark but its intimate, with soft lighting, wood tones and mood music. Its definitely the sort of place you could relax in all night, and the fact that the full menu is available is definitely a positive.

We begin the evening with some cocktails, which are good, but not in a league of their own. For great coktails (and food) I think Longrain is definitely a standout.

I order the Gin Sin, which is rather fruity and does not kick a punch at all. The other two cocktails, the names of which I cannot recall were significantly better with more dimensions and creativity.






For food we start off with some of the tapas to share, going for the six choice option ($33): choosing two plump oysters with a shallot and red wine vinegar, a double serve of the excellent house smoked salmon with creme fraiche and toasted brioche, a double serve of the steak tartare, which is spicy and well seasoned, but not as fine as that which I sampled on my last visit; and finally the rabbit terrine, which is not really a terrine at all, but more of a chunky pate that is really not that good on its own, lacking the sweet mango chutney, which accompanied it so well on my last visit.


For mains I simply cannot go past the now famous Bistro Guillaume fish and chips - whole whiting with pommes Pont-Neuf and beurre maitre d'hotel ($45): This is quite possibly Melbourne's best whole fish. Others have spoke about overly thick crumbing in the opening weeks. This one has a very light crumb layer and is cooked perfectly. The resulting flesh is super tender and breaking away and the accompanying maitre d'hotel butter absolutely delightful - the herbs and garlic complimenting the fish perfectly. The pedestal of fat chips were also good, but lacked the crunch and flavour of those from Bistro Vue. The fish though made up for it. I can tell you that there wasn't much left on the plate after I had dissected it from every angle, determined to get value. After all this was a $45 fish. And a glass of wine from the uber expensive list set me back another $20.


Duck confit with Brussels sprouts, speck and mustard sauce ($35): Kat's dish. A well cooked leg of duck sits atop a creamy concoction of brussels sprouts and speck. The duck has been confit perfectly and falls right off the bone. As a dish it seems very good: but probably no better than you would get at other restaurants of this level.


Steak frites, sauce a la bordelaise ($35): Again, good steak, cooked well with a nice sauce. Its tender and everything you expect a steak to be. Robert proclaimed that it was one of the best steaks he had eaten. I probably wouldn't go that far. The accompanying frites were rather average: still unsure as to whether they were freshly cut or frozen.


Desserts were omitted, opting for gelato later in the evening.

Overall Bistro Guillaume provides an excellent dining experience and I particularly love the atmosphere of the bar. Service was once again fairly slick and it was difficult to find too much fault with the evening.

MY RATING: 17.5/20 - Food: 8.5/10 Service: 4/5 Ambience-bar: 5/5 (My view may be biased, but I just love the bar setting)

www.bistroguillaume.com.au

Bistro Guillaume has also been reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here and here

Labels: Bistro Guillaume, REVIEWS: Fine Dining

With all the recent buzz at Crown including the opening of Bistro Guillaume it is very easy to look past the Brasserie; one of the more established restaurants located riverside at Crown. Headed by the famous Phillipe Mouchel, a chef well regarded in Melbourne food circles, the food here is well thought out, clever and delicious.

In my opinion it is one of Melbourne's premier French restaurants serving up refined food of the highest calibre. I have dined here a number of times over the past few months, enjoying some of the best dishes I have eaten anywhere, including a sublime tartare of tuna and beetroot, which is probably my dish of the year to date. The food seems to be evolving every time I visit as well. I no longer regard The Brasserie as merely good - it is outstanding.

I won't bore you with to much detail on the decor and service as I have reviewed the restaurant before. The set up is simple but classy, staff are friendly and efficient and the dining experience as a whole is first class. The restaurant is definitely a place I will continue to visit on a regular basis.

Some of the excellent things I have recently enjoyed:

Spanner Crab Cocktail ($22): A rather classy starter. In the bottom of the cocktail glass sits a cucumber jelly, follwed by the crab meat and a custard, served with some fried brioche croutes. Perfect flavours, and an excellent way to start a meal along with a glass of French.


Yellowfin tuna and beetroot tartare ($22): Absolutely sensational. Sashimi grade tuna diced, with beetroot chunks, fresh herbs and lime oil. It is sweet, delicate and certainly one of the best starters I have enjoyed this year.


Pan-roasted beef tenderloin with porcini cream and sautéed potatoes, beef jus ($37.50): Unforunately the picture doesn't do this dish justice. A perfect fillet of grass fed beef sits atop soft cubed potatoes, which have been sauteed in a porcini scented cream. The plate is finished with a rich beef jus, and some crispy potato crisps. Perfect.


Traditional topside wagyu steak tartare, French fries (150gr) ($35): One of the less attractive looking versions of tartare but the taste is amazing. So creamy and delicious. Served with a side of mesculun on the plate and a dish of excellent hand cut frites.
In the background: sauteed mushrooms with parisienne gnocchi ($8) - an excellent side dish.


Chilled green beans and tomato salad ($8.50): with a creamy dressing, boiled egg quarters and anchovies. Served chilled it makes an excellent side dish.


Desserts at The Brasserie are always a joy as well, especially when they involve chocolaate.

One offering I had to try was the Chocolate and raspberry macaroon with raspberry sorbet: I must firstly say that it wasn't as good as Duncan's amazing macaroons, but I definitely enjoyed it nonethless. It is the biggest macaroon I have seen and is well constructed with a raspberry creme as well as fresh berries. The accompanying sorbet is nice, though quite melted.


I should also mention that The Brasserie has one of Melbourne's best value lunch specials: $38.50 for two courses and a side dish. This allows you to choose any courses from the full a la carte menu, with the exception of a few premium dishes such as lobster and wagyu. The offer is valid daily, including weekends making it all the more attractive. Final words for a well chosen wine list, with a good, varied selection available by the glass.

The Brasserie receives a score of 15 out of 20 and was awarded one chefs hat in the 2008 Age Good Food Guide.

My score: 17/20 - Food: 9/10 Service: 4/5 Ambience: 4/5 - I think it is one of our best and it really deserves to be rewarded with two hat status in the upcoming guide.

The Brasserie has previously been reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here

Labels: REVIEWS: Fine Dining, The Brasserie

Last week I returned to Giuseppe Arnaldo and Sons for another casual dinner, eager to try more of the menu. Unfortunately I made the mistake of turning up just before 7PM (it seems that this is a little late to get a table at GA&S). I am initially offered a seat at the bar, but turn it down opting to wait for a table. I am told they would have something within 30-45 minutes. Well - come 8:30PM I am finally seated and once again look forward to my meal. I understand that restaurants cannot really predict how long each guest will stay for, so I don't hold this against them, but it is something to bare in mind if you plan on eating here as they do not take bookings.

I start the meal off with some of the amazing salumi: this time I choose the enzo ($10), another soft variety that is one of the best I have eaten. The slices are generous and the meat just melts away in the mouth and has such a beautiful mild flavour. Every last bite is savoured. I am surprised that more guests are not trying the range of cured meats: the quality is sensational; something you simply cannot pick up at your local deli.


For mains it was a tough choice whether to order meat, or a pasta. I decided on the latter option and go for the Papardelle with a wild boar ragu ($23): The pasta is cooked al dente (although probably a tad too firm for my liking) and the ragyu is rich with tender pieces of braised boar meat. It has a fairly simple composition, but is a good dish, finished well with a shaving of fresh pecorino. The dish is indicative of the general theme here: simple food that is done really well. The sort of stuff you may be able to cook yourself, but don't have the time or patience to do so.


I have it on good authority that the crumbed pork cutlet, and eggplant "parmigiano" are both very good. I plan on trying both on my next visit. I am also still waiting to try the "Zuppa Inglese" as well, which is only available to be shared amongst two or more. I was set to return with friends earlier this week, but not in the mood to wait around we decided to head down to the Bistro Guillaume bar, where we enjoyed a stunning dinner.

To finish the meal at GA&S my waiter recommends some of their chocolates ($10). Happy to be surprised I let him choose. I receive a chocolate and hazelnut block which is extra smooth. Far superior to most of the commercial chocolate we consume in this country. Along with a good espresso it was a very pleasant way to end the meal.


The overall experience at GA&S is a really good one, with reliable home-style Italian cooking at prices reasonable enough to keep its punters coming back for more. I am adjusting my score a little though as service can nod on and off when busy. My waiter must be given full credit though for doing his best to attend to everyones needs, whilst clearly run off his feet. It was also a little dissapointing to see empty tables remain uncleared for over 20 minutes, knowing that there was a long queue of people outside eager to eat.

MY RATING: 15/20 - Food 7.5/10 Ambience 4/5 Service 3.5/5

Giuseppe Arnaldo & Sons has previously been reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here

Labels: Giuseppe Arnaldo and Sons, REVIEWS: Fine Dining

Tonight I decided to re-visit Bistro Guillaume. Unable to get a booking in the restaurant proper I decided to eat downstairs in the bar/ lounge. I must admit that I found the downstairs setting sensational. Its dark with tall lamps and soft mood lighting. Decked out with black walls and timber panels, plush leather booths and lounges: its uber comfortable and gorgeous. I personally prefer it greatly to the main dining room.

In the bar patrons have the option of ordering from the full a la carte menu or a more limited bar tapas menu. I choose the latter option and sample all of the items on offer. You can choose 4, 6 or 8 items) at $22, $33 or $44 respectively, which is reasonable value for the outstanding quality of food you consequently receive.

After a modest wait everything is brought out on a large platter, and the food really is excellent. Clockwise from the top are: In house smoked salmon on an excellent toasted brioche, a quinelle of rabbit meat with mango chutney (a substitution for the terrine du jour), Beetroot with fresh goat's cheese and a cumin vinaigrette, Steak tartare, Two freshly shucked Tasmanian oysters with shallots and red wine vinegar, Mini blue swimmer crabmeat and coriander mayonnaise sandwiches, Chicken and duck foie gras parfait with sauterne jelly and Jamon Iberico and toasted sourdough bruschetta.

Everything was enjoyed but my standout would have to be the chicken and duck foie gras parfait which was incredibly indulgent; the creaminess of the parfait complimenting the sweetness of the jelly so perfectly. The little bruschetta of jamon and pickled vegetables was amongst the best I have tasted; and the steak tartare was almost as good as it gets finished so beautifully with two perfect potato crisps.



Service throughout my sitting was strong. There was never a moment where drinks needed re-filling and the staff seem to have seamlessly settled in to the environment.

I can strongly recommend the bar at Bistro Guillaume in its ownright. It is the perfect setting for a comfortable evening of cocktail sipping. The sort of place where you could sit down for a drink and easily stay all night nibbling on the tapas, or staying on for a full meal. Some may find the space too dark but for me it is perfect - check it out now while you can. Highly Recommended.

MY RATING: 17/20 - Tapas 8/10 Ambience (bar) 5/5 Service 4/5

The Bistro Guillaume restaurant has also been reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here

Labels: Bistro Guillaume, REVIEWS: Fine Dining

There is something rather special about eating really good food. The emotions that it creates and the "high" that follows is like no other. Attica certainly gave me that high last night. I left the restaurant uplifted, whistling and wading along the streets, and no it was not the wine talking - I didn't drink a thing. Put simply, Attica is amazing. The food is described as a contemporary approach to Australian cooking with subtle leanings to the East. It is creative, artfully presented and most importantly tastes sensational. Well worth the drive out to Ripponlea.

In the style of restaurants like Fenix and Interlude the menu at Attica is written based on the ingredients of the dish. Most of the dishes have a deconstructed composition, showcasing all of the ingredients in their raw form. I got to experience this in full capacity last night, enjoying the tasting menu: a selection of eight courses that altogether create a dining experience to savour. I have it on good authority that Tuesday nights are another opportunity not to be missed; with chef Ben Shewry (Gourmet Traveller's best new talent, amongst other things) presenting a five course experimental tasting menu, showcasing a range of his newest creations. The cost of this experience: $69 - good value for the sort of food that one ultimately gets to experience. This is certainly something I look forward to trying in the future.

The dining room at Attica is intimate and well set out with soft lighting, banquets along the walls and a comfortable feel to the place. There is a bar station and seating near the entrance, and two separate main dining rooms. Service is seamless and professional in every way. There is never a moment when drinks need filling; and every dish is presented with a thorough explanation by the servers. The passion is evident, and all whom I come across are well informed and enthusiastic about their jobs, happily servicing the requests of all patrons. They are a true asset to the restaurant.

With all this being said its time to talk about the food. Almost everyone in the dining room was ordering the spice-crusted lamb, which did look sensational. I however wanted the full experience and proceeded with Attica's tasting menu ($110) - an eight-course extravaganza, each course as memorable as its predecessor.

To start off with bread is presented: a choice of sourdough or multigrain. Shortly after I receive an amuse guele, which immediately whits the palette making me yearn for more.

amuse guele: leek and squid ink veloute: A creamy leek flavoured puree; squid ink added for its incredible colour. It is finished with the creamiest egg yolk creme and some crispy fried shallot to garnish. Very classy.


cauliflower cheese, yellow plum, clove oil: A deconstructed dish. The bottom of the plate is layered with fromage blanc, on top of which sit the tiny florets of roasted cauliflower, a fine dice of yellow plum, crunchy Sardinian bread crumbs and hand foraged herbs. The combinations work so well together.


red and white radish, yellowfin tuna, hand picked spanner crab, grapefruit, tarragon: A rather sensational course. The dish starts with some thin sheets of shaved red and white radish, the white sheet being cured in ginger syrup, whilst the red sheet is stained with beetroot ink. On top of the sheets sit some perfect cubes of yellow fin tuna along with chunks of the sweetest, most delicate crab meat. In between we have a tiny dice of grapefruit, crispy puffed wild rice and pickled beetroot segments. The dish is ultimately finished with generous amounts of avruga caviar and some micro tarragon leaves. The prime ingredients and contrasting textures make this a rather stunning dish.


smoked trout broth, sorrel oil, crackling, fresh smoke: This dish is first presented at the table covered with a bowl. When lifted the fresh smoke escapes, resulting in a beautiful woody aroma. In the bowl sits three perfect cubes of Confit ocean trout, along with pieces of pork crackling and the sorrel oil. To this, the broth is added from a beaker: a smoky concoction full of baby basil seeds. This is a very creative dish. The trout meat just melts away in the mouth and the broth has a delightful smoky flavour.


quail breast, almond custard, slow cooked carrots, myrtus berries, salt and vinegar crackers: This is another course that has been put together exceptionally well. The star of the show is a perfect rare roasted quail breast. The accompaniments include slow roasted baby carrots, Tasmanian myrtus berries, salt and vinegar "crackers" and a silky almond custard acting as the sauce component. The dish is finished with some nasturtium flowers and micro tarragon leaves, and once again proves to be an incredible course.


poached harpuka, smoked mussel butter, stems, leaves and roots of vegetables, grilled baby squid: A more delicate dish with such a great deal of care taken throughout. The bottom layer of the plate includes a range of "leaves and roots of vegetables" including finely sliced radish, spring onion, seaweed and squash. The piece of fish itself is gently cooked using sous-vide and the result is juicy fall-apart flesh, flavoured by a smoked mussel butter. Also on the plate are puffed rice balls and well-seasoned pieces of tender grilled baby squid flesh. Perfect ingredients cooked with great care. The result: another near-perfect dish.


twice cooked glenloth pigeon breasts, jerusalem artichoke, fresh peanuts, coffee, crispy saltbush: As the name suggests the pigeon breast is cooked twice: firstly using sous vide, then quickly pan fried resulting in crispy skin and tender, rare meat. The breast sits upon segments of warm smoked beetroot and the smoothest artichoke puree. It is all finished off with a sprinkling of coffee grinds, warm peanuts and "crispy saltbush" - deep fried native herbs, which provide an additional textural element to the dish.


That brings us to the end of the savoury courses; after which two incredible, creative desserts arrive.

sauternes custard with plum bits and pieces: From bottom up the glass is lined with a silky sauterne flavoured custard. On top of this sits a scoop of plum/citrus sorbet and the glass is filled with a sweet plum foam. Its all closed off with a toffee tuille dusted with dehydrated black NZ doris plum dust. Wow - Need I say anymore?


pineapple in caramel, licorice, coconut, lime; The final course: Caramelised pineapple finished with micro coriander shoots. On top sits a quenelle of licorice scented ice-cream, finished with an intense lime/citrus foam. To the side of the plate are perfect little licorice pearls, coconut cream and licorice dust. The bitterness of the lime foam provides a refreshing backdrop to the sweet pineapple and creamy ice-cream. Its a wonderful dessert, and has once again been very cleverly planned out.


Overall, Attica is a dining experience not to be missed. The food was magnificent and the degustation serves quite generous. I find it greatly difficult to criticise any aspect of the experience and can thoroughly recommend Attica for a special dining experience.


MY RATING: 18/20 - Food 9.5/10 Ambience 4/5 Service 4.5/5 - Attica is certainly one of Melbourne's best.


www.attica.com.au

Labels: Attica, REVIEWS: Fine Dining

Well, well, well - another fantastic restaurant has opened up at the Crown complex. From the iconic sydney establishment Icebergs, Maurice Terzini has opened up Melbourne's hottest new eatery, Giuseppe Arnaldo and sons. And the restaurant fits in perfectly to the Melbourne dining scene - beautiful setting, excellent food and good value for money - I will definitely be eating here on a regular basis, and cannot wait to try more of their wonderful dishes.

Inside, the restaurant has an informal, yet classy feel about the place. It has been designed very well; broken into subsections with table seating, bars and benches. They have made use of the (large) space very well. Tables are wooden and set with menus, a single sheet, which also acts as a placemat. There are bulit in slots which house the cuttlery, olive oil and salt and pepper grinders. Service is friendly from the moment you arrive and I am promptly escorted to my table, and welcomed to the restaurant by Maurice.

Upon entering one is quickly drawn to the salumi showcase. A mark that the restaurant is really serious about its cured meats. All of them look fantastic. Local prodcuts of the highest quality, prepared using traditional Italian methods are proudly hung here for the diners to ponder at. It would be hard not to start with something from this selection.


I arrive early, luckily as the restaurant is completely full by 7PM. Melbournians have learnt of this place and have quickly embraced it. The restaurant is casual enough to go to for a quick dinner, yet stylish enough for those seeking a more formal experience. This is present throughout my sitting with a number of patrons simply enjoying a quick pasta, whilst others sampled a variety of dishes. One thing is for sure though: everyone left with a smile on their face, for good reason. This is excellent Italian cooking: simple and fresh - I wouldn't want it any other way.

Table setting:


To begin complimentary bread is served. The restaurant features a bread wall and chopping station, where bread is sliced fresh for each table. I receive this plate featuring four different varieties including foccacia and salted grissini.


Next I simply must order some of that fabulous salumi and after reading Jack's reviews I am compelled to try the "Caciatore" Salumi ($12): Nine petite slices of the best salami I have tried. This particular salami is a soft cured variety and is the ultimate in cured meats with a mild flavour and beautiful texture.


Before I know it the "Gambaretti" arrive - Oregano dusted baby prawns served with lemon and aioli ($18): These prawns are just wonderful. Small and fresh they are fabulous eaten whole with a squeeze of lemon. It was a shame to see others dissecting them. They are so full of flavour when they are this small and have a beautiful crunchy coating. The accompanying aioli is also very good and the dish is a standout.


For mains the pasta options seem the best way to go. I decide upon Chittara "Arrabbiata" ($24) - Spaghetti of crab meat, tomato and chilli baked in a paper bag. It is simple and delicious. I look forward to sampling all of their pasta e risotti - a saffron and pork sausage risotto at a neighbouring table looked divine.


Insalate: Pea, Shallots, Mint, Basil, Air Dried Ricotta ($9) - Fresh and perfect. These ingredients work so well together.


As much as I would have liked to sample the dolci there was simply no room left after enjoying all of this, though the Zuppa Inglese (trifle to share) has definitely got my attention and is on my must try list.

Giuseppe Arnaldo and sons is a fabulous new venue to eat, drink and socialise. I will be coming back soon with friends and it is sure to become a regular haunt for myself and many others. The restaurant does not take bookings so get in now, get in early and enjoy.

MY RATING: 16/20 - Food 8/10 Service 4/5 Ambience 4/5 - Its good value and the sought of place I definitely want to visit again soon.

Website: www.idrb.com/giuseppe_main_flash.html

Labels: Giuseppe Arnaldo and Sons, REVIEWS: Fine Dining

Tonight I attended a Gourmet Traveller Readers Dinner at Trunk Restaurant. A wonderful six course dinner was served, plus appetisers and matched wines from Mac Forbes. A fabulous experience with an emphasis on simple, clean flavours and quality produce. A fantastic restaurant and a very enjoyable night.

For now here are the food pics. ==REVIEW TO FOLLOW==

Beef carpaccio, watercress and shaved sovrano:


Campagna buffalo mozzarella, tigerilla and black Russian tomatoes, capers: (a tomato dish even Ed would be proud of)


Spaghettini, smoked eel, garlic, chilli and pangrattato:


Grilled blue eye cod, Puglian porcini mushrooms and orzo:


Slow cooked Rutherglen lamb and fresh borlotti beans:


Trunk's Cassata:

Labels: REVIEWS: Fine Dining, Trunk Restaurant

Finally!!! Its been a long wait for Melbourne food lovers, but the much hyped Bistro Guilaume opened its doors to the Melbourne dining public this Tuesday. I have been waiting eagerly for the restaurant to open and with much anticipation booked myself in early, for dinner on Thursday night. I can gladly report that the experience was a good one, though as its name suggests it is high quality bistro food, much like Bistro Vue, in contrast to the three hat food that Brahimi serves up at his signature Sydney restaurant. Prices are fairly expensive though, particularly the desserts, but I guess this is to be expected with someone like Philippa Sibley (ex-Circa) taking the reigns as pastry chef.

Bistro Guillaume is located riverside at Crown, neighbouring Rockpool. It occupies the space which was formerly Prada, and its fit out (costing a whopping $10 million) is about style and opulence. The entry point is simple, but classy; a small sign on the exterior pointing to what lies inside.


Service is strong from the moment you arrive with a door attendant welcoming you and the friendly staff showing you to your seat. I am seated at the rear of the restaurant, along a wall, which has the disadvantage of being uncomfortable as your arm leans against it. I think banquette seating along the walls would possibly have been a better choice. The room is decorated nicely with a French bistro theme throughout. Padded chairs (worth a grand each), fluffy light fittings and lots of cream colours and wood finishes throughout. Tables are also dreseed with thick patterned white linen and set with quality sant andrea cuttlery, laguiole steak knives and good stemware. Great sums of money have been invested throughout. As well as the restaurant proper there is also a bar down stairs, which I cannot comment on as I did not enter.


Things start off with bread; a crusty baguette slice, which is served without any butter or oil, until it is later requested. My waitress is keen to tell me about many of the dishes on the menu including the plats du jour, which I consequently order and is always friendly and eager to try and help. Most of the staff seem fairly enthusiastic though some lack finesse. The gentleman taking my dessert order seemed to lack any knowledge. Tell me about the tarts - well one is raspberry and the other is peach. I could tell you that the raspberry tart is an individual, round frangipane tart, encased in a perfect shortcrust pastry topped with fresh raspberries and sided by a quinelle of house made pistachio ice-cream. Surely that sought of a description is not too difficult. Most of the others I encountered were more knowledgeable however, though something I witnessed did disturb me greatly. The maitre'd screaming at a young waitress: "what the hell are you doing, put that back right now" as she had removed both table cloths when resetting a table. Surely this could have been done much more discreetly with an offer to assist, rather than yelling at her and storming off. Enough said about these matters though, here is my summary of the food.

terrine du jour - rabbit ($22): An excellent terrine, constructed with confit rabbit meat, stock and tarragon, a dominant ingredient in the food here. The terrine is sided by an excellent spiced plum chutney, a herb salad and some toasted croutons. A very good starter, the sweetness of the chutney melding perfectly with the rabbit. The seasoning throughout is spot-on.


Roasted Flinders Island Lamb - Thursday's plat du jour ($38): Chef buys the whole lamb I am told - the leg is used for another dish and the remaining meat (chefs choice), is used to create this excellent dish. Here we have perfectly roasted lamb loin cooked to medium rare alongside slow roasted shoulder mear, which is cooked to tender perfection. The accompaniments are a tombe of sauteed olives, garlic, cherry tomatoes and green beans. All perfect flavours, the plate finished with an exceptional, light veal and tarragon jus. I really enjoyed this dish, and once again the seasoning was just right.


Gratin Dauphinois ($8): A good, creamy potato gratin. Just one of the available sides.


Seasonal tart - raspberry ($22): A very good tart with a perfect shortcrust shell, filled with a light frangipane filling (an almond cream mix) and finished with fresh raspberries. It is sided by a quinelle of very good pistachio ice cream and is an enjoyable, albeit fairly expensive end to the meal. I mention this mainly because other restaurants in this class, eg. Bistro Vue can offer excellent desserts of a similar quality for around $12.


Extras at Bistro Guillaume are expensive - Sparkling water (Santa Vittoria) is $10 for a 750ml bottle and coffee is $5 without petit fours - ouch!

MY RATING: 16.5/20 - Food 8.5/10 Service 4/5 Ambience 4/5

Bistro Guillaume is a welcome addition to the Melbourne dining scene. I look forward to tracking its progress in the near future. Highly Recommended!

Now I just have to try out Melbourne's other hot new restaurant, also at Crown: Guiseppe Arnaldo and sons. Hopefully next week.

www.bistroguillaume.com.au

Labels: Bistro Guillaume, REVIEWS: Fine Dining

“Greek cuisine is not about structure or formalities. It’s about the passion of ‘kerasma’. At The Press Club ‘kerasma’ means to treat and symbolises Greek hospitality. It brings together the pleasure of food and beverage to your everyday table” (George Calombaris). This philosophy certainly comes true when you order the kerasma (an unstructured chef’s choice menu) at The Press Club. The kerasma begins with a mezedes board, followed by appetizers, salads, mains and if you can handle it, sweets. They don’t just throw any old food at you either: it’s a selection of the chefs’ finest: intermixing creative and traditional Greek cuisine. The sought of things my grandma cooks, along with much more imaginative faire.

After trying to get a booking here many times over the past year to no avail I finally set a date and ate at The Press Club last night; thoroughly enjoying the “Kerasma B” menu, a selection of just about everything the kitchen has to offer for $75. It is great value in my opinion, for the vast amount of high quality food that is presented. The service I received was very good, but this may be inconsistent. My drinks were constantly filled and the eager to please staff always there whenever needed. Conversing with other guests showed that this treatment was not universal. Louise, a patron at a nearby table who popped over for a chat pre-dessert, stated a 20-minute wait after ordering expensive champagne (I think it probably needed to be chilled) and constant struggling for attention. I also observed another nearby table having to ask for wine to be filled after glasses sat empty for some time. I know the feeling, but had no such trouble here. My waiter was very attentive.

The Press Club has a nice, informal ambience. A long marble bar sits along the front, as well as an open kitchen. I am pleased to report that there are definitely no smoke or ventilation issues inside; something which was apparently an issue when they first opened. Swanky lights drop down from the ceiling across the room and dark colours and wood panneling are used to create a more intimate space. The place is buzzing; filled with smartly attired young wait staff. Tables covered with a white sheet stamped with The Press Club logo in the corner. I like it a lot, but must grumble a little about table spacing. There are quite simply too many tables jammed into the modest dining room. Staff must struggle, squeezing between tables to deliver food. One negative of an otherwise well set up room.

Before I review the food I must credit the staff who gave thorough descriptions of each dish, as well as the Greek names. Unfortunately I did not absorb a lot of this information but will do my best to summarise everything I ate.

Things start off at The Press Club with a customary offering of bread: no less than three varieties are presented. A crusty yoghurt sourdough, pistachio honey loaf and a lovely sun dried tomato bread, the flavours subtle but apparent. The bread is served with a good Greek olive oil and black flake salt from Cyprus. Each variety is excellent but I am careful to simply have a nibble of each so as to not fill up before the food proper arrives.


The first course is an excellent mezedes (tastes) board: Clockwise from the top, the board contains: Rather excellent pickled cabbage and cucumber slices, a slightly sweet vegetarian dolmade (vine leaf stuffed with rice and drizzled with honey), a fresh mussel topped with a fetta and tomato crust, saganaki martini - A warm skewered piece of grilled haloumi ontop of a "martini" of chilled "tomato tea", marinated Australian and Greek olives and finally a dish of seasoned baby octopus meat. Each morsel is excellent. I particularly enjoyed the haloumi skewer, and the tender spiced octopus meat.


After the mezedes two different orektika (appetisers) arrive. The first is this dumpling of minced chicken, sitting on a creamy capsicum and fetta dip. It is sided with a crisp cucumber spaghetti, perfectly dressed with olive oil, mint and dill and a sweet fig paste. The dumpling itself is fine but not spectacular. The accompaniments however are top rate.


The second orektika is excellent. A crispy fried zucchini flower, stuffed with ricotta and sided by a perfect quinelle of creamy pine nut skordalia and a drizzling of Greek honey.


After enjoying the orektika two different salates (salads) are presented. The first is this sensational dish of fresh sliced figs, sitting atop Greek yoghurt and finished with flaked roasted almonds, olive oil and a sticky balsamic reduction. The flavours work together so well - the freshness of the figs with the creamy youghurt and sweetness of the balsamic. So good.


The other salate is this creative little dish of watermelon, topped with crumbled Greek fetta, small green olives, caramalised walnuts, shaved radish and micro beetroot shoots. Another explosion of fresh flavours. Certainly not your typical salad dish.


Whilst I am finishing my salads the kyrio (mains) board is presented. Again I am gobsmacked by the amount of food. The board contains a beautiful pan-fried fillet of garfish, the most amazing spit roasted lamb of both rack and skirt meat, a serve of roasted lemon potatoes, "horiatiki" - Greek salad, pickled cucumbers, a diced potato salad with a mustard dressing and the creamy capsicum and fetta dip. So much food.


Lovely fillet of garfish, garnished "Greek style" with olive oil and herbs, served with a wedge of lemon. Slightly crisp outside and soft inside. A simple, tasty piece of fish.


"Hot off the Press" Lamb Spit: My notes from the night - "Fall off the bone fatty goodness" just about sums this dish up. It reminds me of my grandmas roasted lamb. It was so soft and gelatinous with beautiful crisp skin. The potatoes were exactly like my grandmas, like big wedges: crisp on the outside and soft inside, with a very subtle hint of lemon. The meat lays nicely on a good white bean skordalia and is finished with roasted onion, green beans and a little fetta. So good.


"Horiatiki" - Greek Salad. Large chunks of cucumber that have been seeded, along with red onion, tomato, fetta, fennel and plump olives. I've seen chefs remove the seeds from cucumbers before but never really understood it. This salad is the reason why. Its so crisp and the dressing is excellent. All in all making it the best Greek salad I've ever had.


A selection of dessert mezedes: I am seriously given enough for three people here. Tables of two and three seemed to receive the same plate. Everything is really good, though the presentation of one of the dishes is less than appetising, another guest commenting that it looked like cat turd. Clockwise from the top the board contains: chocolate fondant, with a squiggle of rich mousse and a smooth coconut scented ice-cream. It is rich and delicious, but maybe the mould should not be so heavily floured, and the squiggle? Next is mastic panacotta with marinated strawberries. Mastic is a small evergreen shrub which produces an aromatic resin, which adds flavour and texture when used in cooking. I love panacotta and this was a good, albeit different version. Next are the loukoumades, fabulously light greek doughnuts drizzled with attiki honey and finally a textbook perfect classic creme caramel. The desserts are really very good and I am hard pressed to criticise any of them.


Things are wrapped up with a strong espresso and I leave very satisfied. I now have to convince my grandmother to come with me for dinner, who declined my invitation.

If you really want a Greek feast, and the chance to see George Calombaris and his team in action you simply must visit The Press Club. But book ahead because its always full. You can order a la carte or trust the chefs and go for the kerasma. It is well worth it and they will customise a feast to suit your needs, with dietary requirements and personal preferences taken into consideration.

The Press club received a score of 16 out of 20 and was awarded two chefs hats in the 2008 Age Good Food Guide. It also received the award for Best New Restaurant.

MY RATING: 16.5/20 - Food 8.5/10 Ambience 4/5 Service 4/5 - Highly Recommended

www.thepressclub.com.au

Labels: REVIEWS: Fine Dining, The Press Club

Last Wednesday I once again had the privelege of having a fantastic dinner at one of my favourite restaurants, Pearl. I was very lucky to get a last minute booking - the restaurant was full throughout the night. As I was told on the phone though, we couldn't possibly let you go hungry, such is the warmth of hospitality that Pearl exhibits.

Pearl really is the perfect example of a Modern Australian restaurant fusing fresh ingredients with international technqiues to create innovative and delicious food. Chef, Geoff Lindsay strongly believes in love and respect for ingredients, seeing his cooking as an immediate and sensual art form. The end result is amazing food that delivers everything it promises and then some more.

Pearl's setting is also wonderful: modern with leather banquettes and funky white chairs around the place. Its all quality and detail as well with crisp starched linen and quality glasswares, cutlery and crockery. There is attention to detail from the moment you arrive to the moment you leave. Exactly what you expect when you are paying for high-end dining.

Things start off with an offering of Pearl Bread, Cobram estate extra virgin olive oil with lemon: A beautiful little loaf of warm bread split at the bottom and served with a robust lemon oil.


A customary amuse guele follows: tonight its (strangely) a Bloody Mary, straight from the bar.

I then order a new entree - Saltwater charr cooked in palm sugar and nam pla, wallis lakes rock oysters, a sahimi of gould's squid with iberico ham and honey dew melon, shaved lime ice ($30):
This is a wonderful little medley of seafood. In the middle of the plate sits the fresh squid. Delicate strips sit atop the "lime ice" which is rather like a spoonful of a bitter citrus slurpee. This cold citrus taste contrasts well with the squid to showcase the freshness and subtlety of its meat. On the sides sit three small oysters, which are wonderfully creamy and dressed with a little salad made from a julienne of melon, as well as three small pieces of saltwater charr (a fish which is very similar to salmon or ocean trout) which has been so gently cooked in palm sugar, giving it a wonderful sweetness, whilst maintaining the integrity of the fish and its texture. The charr pieces are finished with some air-dried iberico ham and sit on a small droplet of the sticky cooking syrup. I really enjoyed eating this dish, slowly picking at each of the morsels and savouring each piece for what it was.


Main - Roast red ducky curry, a crispy fried egg, shallots, mint, sweet fish sauce and coconut rice ($42):
If you haven't had Pearl's duck, you have not really experienced duck. It is a signature dish, for good reason. I find myself hard pressed not to order it each time I visit and I'm yet to find anyone who doesn't love it. It is such a complete and filling dish that satisfies to the max. In one bowl sits the duck: slowly cooked, so tender that it easily falls off the bone. Another bowl contains a light coconut rice, and the third contains the fish sauce, egg and condiments, which you mix together and poor on the duck as you serve it. The taste is just amazing; the fish/egg sauce is incredible and the range of flavours in the dish blows me away every time I eat it. It really is something special. A must try dish!


After eating the duck there simply isn't any room left for a full dessert so I order a hot chocolate and a little snack from their "sweet treats" list.

Pearl's famous hot chocolate ($6.50):
One of the best hot chocolates in town. Just look at it. In a glass sits a layer of real valrhona chocolate topped with hot milk and a thick layer or creamy froth. Then there is a small jug with more milk and a dish with broken chunks of valrhona chocolate. This allows you to adjust the chocolate to your taste, making it richer or creamier. Or you can even make another hot chocolate or dare I say it, nibble on the extra chocolate pieces.


Coconut ice ($5):
Its basically made from coconut and icing sugar, with pink food colouring added to the top layer. A simple but tasty childhood treat.


Pearl remains an exceptional dining experience and is definitely one of my favourite places to eat. It is a comfortable, intimate dining room but can get rather noisy when full. The food: some of Melbourne's best, especially that amazing duck.

Pearl received a score of 17 out of 20 in the 2008 Age Good Food Guide and was awarded two chefs hats.

MY RATING: 18/20 - Food 9/10 Service 4.5/5 Ambience 4.5/5 Highy Recommended!

www.pearlrestaurant.com.au

Labels: Pearl, REVIEWS: Fine Dining

What can I say? I have just come home from Shira Nui, an amazing Japanese/ Sushi restaurant located in Glen Waverly. They serve up some of the best sushi I have ever eaten and it was a wonderful experience. Expensive, but worth every cent of the $100 it cost me (excluding drinks) to eat here. This is supreme quality that you are unlikely to find anywhere else in Melbourne. It was fabulous sitting at the bar watching the masters perform their work. A truly memorable sushi experience with sublime, creative and exciting food.

From the outside Shira Nui just looks like another local shopping-strip restaurant, and inside its set up is simple, but pleasant. There is a 13-seat bar at the front as well as a number of tables where patrons can order a la carte. I am seated at the sushi bar and am immediately asked if I will be taking the omakase or if I would like to see the menu. I, of course go for the omakase (chefs selection), which is almost mandatory - everyone at the bar was eating this way and I am sure its definitely the way to go. Hiro-san and his assistant will keep presenting dishes until you have had enough. With each comes a brief description of what you are about to eat and a simple instruction of "soy" or "no soy" depending on how the sushi is prepared. From the moment the first piece hits your mouth you know this is no ordinary sushi bar. The quality of the fish and the way it is crafted and presented is really something else. Whilst my pictures give an insight into the offerings you really must try the food to really appreciate it.

My Sushi Journey: 10 courses, then dessert.


A rather bland shop-front exterior gives no hint as to what lies inside.


Chef Hiro Nishikura (right) with his assistant Yuki Ueno.


Cod sushi seasoned with salt and lemon juice. So fresh, and delicate, but with a citrus kick.


Pan fried salmon sushi coated with a Japanese spice blend and finished with a tiny squeeze of lemon. Warm, perfectly textured and just melts away in your mouth.


Mackeral covered in rare kombu seaweed. There is a real sweetness to the external layer which contrasts against the spicing and oiliness of the fish.


Grilled BBQ beef - just seared. A lovely sweetness to the tender beef and again melt-in-the-mouth perfect.


Ark Shell, a subtle flavoured fleshy shell fish. A different texture to the others, much firmer.


Seared Tuna Steak. I just love tuna and this is sensational. Just seared then finished with a sticky dressing and some finely sliced spring onion. A taste sensation.


Sea Prawns with spicy cod roe. 3 tiny shrimp-like prawns: some of the freshest I have ever tasted, bound together with a nori strip and finished with a dollop of the most delicate, spiced cod roe. Another taste that was just SO GOOD.


Baked oyster nori roll with mayonnaise. OMG - This was my favourite. So rich and creamy. The oysters are baked and placed into the rice-filled nori-roll immediately before serving. I can't begin to describe how good this tasted.


Marinated kingfish belly seared with the blow torch. Perfect, sublime fish scored and torched giving it a light crust and an exciting texture. I really loved this.


Baked hapuka with cod roe. My final dish - completely cooked white fish pieces bound together and finished with cod roe. A contrast of warmth and bursts of salty freshness. A nice way to end a rather impressive line-up.


Dessert: Black Sesame Creme Brulee with fruit salad and ice-cream cubes. Just one of the impressive non-standard offerings from their list. The brulee has a crunchy glazed top that you crack in to and inside is soft and well-flavoured. The accompanying salad is perfect and helps to refresh the palette.

Overall Shira Nui provided a very impressive evening. Amazing quality sushi with the advantage of watching the chefs prepare it fresh right in front of you. I look forward to visiting again soon and speaking more with Hiro-san. It was so busy this Friday night that I didn't get to interact with him as much as I would liked to have.

Shira Nui was awarded one chefs hat and received a score of 15 out of 20 in the 2008 Age Good Food Guide.

MY RATING: 15.5/20 - Food 9/10 Ambience 3.5/5 Service 3/5 - Highly Recommended!

Labels: REVIEWS: Fine Dining, Shira Nui (Glen Waverly)

As part of the Melbourne Food and Wine festival, more than 100 of Victoria's best restaurants are taking part in the "Restaurant Express" Lunch promotion, offering patrons a two course lunch with a glass of Victorian wine and coffee/ tea for only $30. A true bargain given that all of the participating restaurants are "Good Food Guide" recommended, including several hatted establishments. It is a great time to dine in restaurants that may normally be out of reach and that is exactly what I did today enjoying an excellent lunch at Oyster Little Bourke.

Oyster has now been open for two years, and has become renowned for, amongst other things their range of freshly shucked oysters and some of the best steaks in Melbourne. The establishment itself is simple but classy, with quality fittings and smart service to match. I really am privileged to be able to dine here for just $30. You would struggle to get two courses and wine at a simple cafe for this sum. My one whinge however about the setting is the butchers paper on the tables. It really detracts from the ambience, but I believe that this is only taking place at lunchtime, for the Express lunch, to reduce costs and more easily enable two sittings.


On offer for the "Express" lunch are three fantastic entree, main and dessert choices. To start with one can choose between a 1/2 a dozen fresh oysters, salmon gravlax on a potato salad or a fantastic gnocchi dish. And for mains it is a choice of steak, pork or fish. All of which look fantastic. Desserts, including a tiramisu, are also available.

I opt for the gnocchi and steak along with a glass of red. I also order a side of chips to accompany my main.

First Course: Ricotta Gnocchi with a chicken and mushroom ragout:
Generous and delicious. I tend to steer away from Gnocchi in restaurants, but having eaten chef Joseph Vargetto's excellent pasta many times whilst he served at Number 8, I have confidence here and the dish is indeed wonderful: perfectly light pillows of gnocchi sit in a hearty ragout of the most tender braised chicken and mushrooms finished in a thick herby tomato sauce.


Main: New York Steak served minute style on a bed of crushed peas.
A very good course. The steak was seasoned well and perfectly pink inside. It is lightly crusted and sits atop a bed of fresh crushed peas. The flavour of the meat excellent, as was the intense jus surrounding it, showcasing the dish as much more than just a simple piece of steak.


Side: Hand cut French fries ($6):
A picture-perfect example of how chips should be.


The meal is finished with a good cup of coffee and I am rather impressed with the whole experience. Many discounted lunches can result in poor quality food, or diminished servings. This was certainly not the case at Oyster.

The Melbourne Food and Wine Festival ends March 8 so get yourself an express lunch booking and enjoy it while you can. Click here to download a list of participating restaurants.

Oyster offers a year-round lunch special with 2 courses and a glass of wine for $39 or 3 courses for $49. An offer which represents very good value for the quality of food on offer.

Oyster Little Bourke received a score of 15.5 out of 20 in the 2008 Age Good Food Guide and was awarded one chefs hat.

MY RATING: 15.5/20 - Food 8/10 Ambience 3.5/5 Service 4/5

www.oysterlittlebourke.com.au

Labels: Foodie Events, Oyster Little Bourke, REVIEWS: Fine Dining

This is just a quick posting on one of my favourite restaurants, Number 8. The restaurant is located along the river at Crown and serves contemporary food of a high quality that is not overly messed about with.

One of the reasons I like the restaurant so much is because of its excellent value lunches. At lunch time you can choose any two courses and a side dish for only $37.90 or three courses for $43.90. This entitles you to choose any courses from their full a la carte menu, with the exception of a few premium items such as Wagyu and lobster. To top things off service is of a high standard and the restaurant is stylish and comfortable with quality tableware and linen. There is also an outdoor terrace area, which overlooks the river and is a wonderful place to eat during the warmer months.


A meal at Number 8 always begins with an offering of fresh house-baked bread and a complimentary offering of dips which may include such selections as: beetroot, pumpkin, white-bean, chunky eggplant, olive tapenade, hummus or tzatziki. Always a good way to start a meal in my view.

Entrees and mains offer a great variety of seafood, meat and vegetarian offerings so there is always something to suit most people's tastes, and their range of side dishes is one of the biggest in town with everything from salads and fries to porcini risotto.

On my last visit my dining companion and I sampled a number of dishes which I will only speak briefly on.

Salt and pepper calamari - My favourite calamari anywhere. It is amazingly tender and served atop a tomato and lime compote, sided by an excellent herbed aioli.


Zucchini Flowers - Stuffed with ricotta and served with wild rocket, red peppers and a balsamic dressing. Unlike most zucchini flowers, these are lightly steamed rather than fried and you can taste the true freshness of the baby zucchini.


Chicken - Free range chicken breast served with asparagus and a puff pastry filled with king brown mushrooms and parmesan. A good dish.


We also sample a couple of desserts:

Vanilla pana cotta: Served with blackberries, baked peach and toffee crunch. Pana cotta is a dessert which has become unfashionable in recent times, but nevertheless it is still a favourite of mine. This one is a very good example.


Chocolate and Coffee Ganache: An intensely rich offering served with some fresh berries and sided with an excellent mascarpone ice cream. One of my favourites.


Number 8 is an excellent restaurant for all occasions and their lunch special makes a visit all the more worthwhile. Highly Recommended.

MY RATING: 15/20 - Food 7.5/10 Ambience 3.75/5 Service 3.75/5


www.number8atcrown.com.au

Labels: Number 8, REVIEWS: Fine Dining

A few weeks back I had the privilege of having dinner at Rockpool Melbourne. It was a last minute decision and wanting to spoil myself I decided that Rockpool was the perfect restaurant.

Entering Rockpool one can easily be overwhelmed by a number of things. The sheer size of the restaurant is amazing, seating 150 patrons, in addition to the bar space. You are also immediately confronted by hanging carcasses in a cool room near the entry and soon walk into a large room awaft with smoke coming from the open grills. Initially a turn off but you soon realise that it just adds to the ambience. From the moment you walk in it is apparent that Rockpool is a serious steak restaurant, and not withstanding the price it would be difficult not to consider one of the fine cuts of meat on offer.

As a restaurant Rockpool looks really good. It is comfortable with large, leather topped wooden tables, and leather lounges as seats. All clever reminders that you are in a steak restaurant. This continues when the menu arrives, which is presented as a single sheet of paper with a large picture of a cow in the background. The theme is clear. Look around and nearly everyone is eating steak. With all this in mind it must be noted that Rockpool Melbourne is not just about the steak. Like the original Sydney establishment seafood plays a big part on the menu, with freshness being paramount. All shellfish is kept live in a tank until ordered and fish is dry filleted to maintain quality and integrity. You can read all about the Rockpool philosophy on their website. There is a true passion for produce and excellence. Not just gimmicks.


On the night I contemplate the menu for some time. I decide to start with a couple of oysters ($4ea). These are freshly shucked at a station at the front of the restaurant, and are served on ice, along with muslin wrapped lemon and a wonderful mignonette dressing. Not in your ordinary style though. The dressing is translucent and pink, but all of the wonderful flavours of egg, onion, caper and herbs are present. There is great care taken in the preparation and presentation of such a seemingly simple dish. Care, which is strongly appreciated on my part.


Next up is my entree. One of Rockpool's signature dishes: "Four raw tastes of the sea" ($26) - an excellent dish comprising four different morsels, each with their own condiment. From left to right these include: kingfish with a minced cos and smoked oyster topping, ocean trout with finely diced preserved lemon and harissa, tuna topped with julienne ginger and cilantro and a ceviche of squid with an intense citrus dressing. Each is amazingly fresh and beautifully presented. A great way to start the meal, as are a number of the seafood offerings.


To follow is the steak. A decision, which I contemplated for some time. I ultimately decide upon the Wagyu Sirloin, at a hefty $110. For this price you don't just get any old piece of steak, but rather some of the best meat that money can buy. It is grade 9+ wagyu (the highest grade available in Australia); bread by Blackmore wagyu and only available at a select few restaurants across the country, with most of the limited meat being reserved for export. The fact that you are getting the very best therefore justifies the need to pay such a premium.


I am surprised when I first receive the steak. It is served "minute style", flattened out like a sandwich steak. This is not what I expected when ordering "rib eye", but I soon get over it. To accompany it are Rockpool's usual accompaniments of horseradish cream and béarnaise, in addition to a condiment service, which offers a range of mustards as well as a house-made harissa or barbecue sauce, which I opt for. The steak is something special and is amazingly tender. The marbling is present throughout, as you can see in the picture below. I must say though that this was not the best tasting beef that I have eaten. That honour has to go to an incredible piece of meat, which I consumed at Vue de monde, but this was still very good and was worth it for the experience. Eating good wagyu really is a different experience to your ordinary piece of steak; something you must try to understand. To go with my steak I am obliged to order sides. I opt for some excellent chips ($8) and amazing mushrooms ($12), which have been wood-fire grilled and sit in a bowl with their incredi