Welcome to Melbourne Foodie. The blogspace of a young foodie with a passion for cooking, fine dining and quality food and produce.
Melbourne Foodie, along with the other sources I write for is my way of casually expressing and recording some of the experiences I have had for others to enjoy. I always welcome any feedback,
comments or restaurant suggestions you may have and would love to hear from you soon.
MUST VISIT SOON: Livingroom, Hare & Grace
MOST RECENT FEASTINGS: Pei Modern, Sarti, PM24, Vue de Monde
BLOG OF THE MOMENT: I Eat Therefore I Am
Happy eating,
Jon!
Saturday, April 21, 2012
Ezard - The Degustation Experience!
"Restaurants like ezard change your perception of the dining experience"
(The Age Good Food Guide).... An old quote, but one that certainly still reigns true today.
Ezard is a restaurant that I will always love. It really is a very special place; special to me, because it was one of the first "hatted" restaurants I had the privelege of visiting when I embarked upon my foodie adventures, back in my teenage years. I remember saving for several weeks back then to build up the funds to go and spoil myself. That first experience was a full degustation dinner, similar to the one I'm going to share with you below.
Since that first gastronimc adventure I have continued to visit Ezard, perhaps three or four times a year; and to be honest not a lot has really changed, nor should it have.
The restaurant has however undergone some minor face-lifts over time and the menu has gradually evolved and become sharper, more creative and more refined than ever before. Like a good bottle of wine, Ezard has become that little bit better with age.
Ezard use to be termed a "Modern Australian" restaurant, a term which is now overused. The cuisine here is creative - it relies upon the freshest local produce, and fuses various differnt cooking styles, techniques and flavour combinations from around the world, to create a unique and memorable dining experience. Today we often term this stlye of food as "Contemporary" but this is so much more.
Chef Teague Ezard describes his food as "Australian freestyle" - a term I love. He says "the most obvious influences are the traditional dishes of the great Asian cuisines, including Chinese and Thai."
Ezard showcases true fusion cooking. "Fusion may be an overworked word, but the food it describes is not."
I am going to keep this review brief - and instead provide a very brief snapshot of each dish from the current Degustation Menu - needless to say a sublime meal was had. On this occasion we decided against the matched wine flight and chose to enjoy a bottle of Ten Minutes by Tractor "Estate", a luscious "new world" Chardonnay which perfectly matched the early dishes, followed by glasses of a beautiful Cotes Du Rone & Pinot Noir which assisted the enjoyment of the latter "meat" courses.
The Degustation Experience (April 2012):
Japanese inspired oyster shooter:
A signature dish on the ezard menu for many years. Here sits a fresh shucked oyster, in a sweet, but racey flamed off sake/mirin/chilli dressing. To finish a rice-noodle nori roll..... One was simply not enough - so we had another couple each afterwards.
A signature dish on the ezard menu for many years. Here sits a fresh shucked oyster, in a sweet, but racey flamed off sake/mirin/chilli dressing. To finish a rice-noodle nori roll..... One was simply not enough - so we had another couple each afterwards.
Vodka and citrus cured salmon, beetroot crisp, finger lime, wasabi aioli and shiso cress:
Gorgeous, sikly salmon segments, with a creamy aioli, sweet betroot puree and crisp. A very elegently executed presentation.
Steamed blue swimmer crab dumpling with yarra valley salmon roe, celery cress and tom kha:
By far the most peopular entree on the menu we are told. The description speaks for itself. A pefectly steamed dumpling, filled with a sweet crab meat farce. The plate is filled with beautiful, bustling salmon pearls - which just "pop" in the mouth and finished with a silky, luscious, spiced tom kha broth at the table.
Asparagus, persian feta and witlof salad, poached quail egg, hazelnuts and soft herbs:
A beautiful light salad. Robust goodness from the quail egg, that oh so creamy persian fetta and the dill atop helps balance all the flavours.
Coconut grilled ocean trout with asian gazpacho, heirloom tomatoes, creme fraiche, hot and sour salad:
Perfect roasted trout which just falls apart, a light semi-sweet gazpacho, and of course the hot and sourness from the chilli-herb salad balanced with the creamy and refreshing creme fraiche.
Char-siu quail with mandarin pancake, lime and cucumber salad and roasted rice:
A little bonus for us. Small segments of deboned, roasted quail meat, beautifully sweet and sticky. A rice-paper mandarin "pancake". A tangy salad provides that extra "Asian" element and the roasted rice provides a textural "crunch".
Slow cooked bangalow pork belly, apple pudding, fennel, white peach, calvados jus:
Sweet, gelatinous goodness. Apply pudding is your puree and the calvados jus adds some extra richness and "wow" to the dish.
Chinese style roast duck, green chilli and oyster sauce dressing with coconut rice and asian greens:
Another menu stalwart, and one of my favourites which has undergone some minor changes to keep up with the times, but kept the same major elements. Roasted, pink, tender duck breast slices sit atop the oh so sweet coconut rice and lightly wilted greens. Finished with a chilli-asian salad and sweet potato crisps and a light/sweet/spicy dressung the dish is simply a winner - and remains a favourite with regular punters for good reason.
ezard dessert tasting plate to share:
Would you really want to finish off a magical meal any other way. Six sublime deserts including an indulgent chocolate and passionfruit torte, pistachio frangipane and my all-time ezard desert favourite - the oh so delivious "honeycrunch icecream" resting upon a toasted gingerbread snap and finished with a sweet sugar swirl.... Heaven!
After eating here regularly for the last eight years Ezard remains my favourite dining destnation in Melbourne.... A very special restaurant; and thankfully one I can now access on a more regular basis. The food is always creative and impressive. You always feel comfortable, and the small basements space feels spacious, even if the tables are rather close. Another big drawcard is Ezard's service, which is faultless; perfectly balancing professionalism with passion, knowledge and witt - the ingredients for success.
Ezard received a score of 17 out of 20 in the 2012 Age Good Food Guide and was awarded Two Chefs Hats, a status it has held for the last five years, before experiencing three. Its been running strong since 1999 and I think it is worthy of Three Hats, but maybe I'm just a tad bit biased.
MY RATING: 18.5/20 - Food 9/10 Service 5/5 Ambience 4.5/5 - Truly one of Australia's great dining destinations.
http://www.ezard.com.au/
http://www.ezard.com.au/
Labels: Ezard, REVIEWS: Fine Dining
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Sarti Ristorante
Sarti can probably be described as a very Melbourne restaurant. You walk up a small staircase into a bustling dining room - there's a bar in the middle of the room, where one can sit and have a drink and tables (inside and out) around the room. Its noisy and buzzing, but still pretty casual; and the service probably reflects this style. Personally I don't really like being referred to as "mate" or "buddy" by a maitre de when I'm going out for a nice meal, but that withstanding, the staff do know their stuff, and make an effort to please, even if it does involve five different waitstaff throughout the course of a meal.
To be fair I have visited Sarti twice over the past six months or so, and they were two rather different dining experiences - the food on both visits being quite impressive, but I guess the service is what really made the difference; the first episode being far too laxed, whilst the second being simply flawless from start to end. Episode one was also a little hit and miss with some of the food; whilst the second take was completely on the mark - so I guess as long as the mix of variables is right on the evening you are destined to do very well.
The menu at Sarti can best be described as modern Italian and is broken into pastas, smaller and larger plates and sweets. From everything I have read and heard about Sarti before and after my visits, the consensus seems to be that the stuzzichini (shared small dishes, like entrees) are the way to go: where you can structure a meal that will deliver on taste. The mains and pastas are consistent enough, but it is these smaller plates that best highlight the kitchens' creativity and these dishes were largely the basis of my experiences.
Here's a look at some of the hits you might enjoy:
Zucchini Flower: A gorgeous tempura battered zucchini flower filled with a delicate, shredded crab meat farce - light, crispy pefection.
Shallow fried calamari, pickled cauliflower ‘giadiniera’, tartare foam:
Beautiful tender pieces of calamari coated with a crispy polenta crust. The fritti sit on a bed of pickled cauliflower shreds and a light tartare foam, providing two different layers of acidity to break up the dish. The only downfall- excessively salty, but still very much enjoyed.
Calabrian Chilli Crab:
Crispy pieces of fried crab meat, resting on sweet stewed peppers. Not for the chilli-shy: This one really packed a punch.
Tempura Crab Claw:
Gorgeous, fresh, sweet crab meat served with a chilli-salt- Simple prefection.
Gyoza filled with 'cime di rapa', saute of morton bay bugs, basil seeds:
A really nice pasta dish- lots of delicate flavour, perfectly cooked and pretty as a picture. Again, difficult to fault.
Sauteed venison liver with caramalised onions and chickpeas:
A dish I should have loved & really wanted to love - but ultimately a failure. The liver was requested rare, but served cooked right through to an unpleasant level. A replacement dish had the same issue and for me was inedible. Apologies were made - and the dish no longer sits on the menu.
Braised veal cheeks, purple cauliflower cous cous, prosciutto consomme, black rice:
Another dish thats certainly not shy of the sodium, but the flavours were really beautiful. The most tender veal, parcelled and resting atop the toasted rice and other accompanishments, finished with a clear salty prosciutto broth poored at the table. A well executed main plate.
Chocolate and Orange:
Frozen candied orange, blood orange granita, chocolate sorbet and so much more - The bitter and sweet elements worked so well against each other to create a dish which was stunning in both aesthetics and taste. A very passionate waiter guided me through the preparation of the dolce, including the granita: house-made from fresh blood orange juice the restaurant imports from Italy.
White chocolate and native pepper cream, vin cotto, peanuts, apples:
After consuming several bottles of vino I can't remember too many intimates about this one- but needless to say it was lighter way to end the meal, and well enjoyed.
Overall I think Sarti is undoubtedly a great dining experience, where you can enjoy some excellent food in a casual (and noisy) environment; with service which is knowledgable, but relaxed. You could certainly call it a very "Melbourne" dining experience, but for me I don't quite know whether it is consistent enough to be hat worthy - the first take was miles off, whereas my second visit suggested the restaurant certainly deserves its accolades. I guess more research on my part is definitely necessary before I can make a final judgement - well thats my excuse for wanting to head back soon anyhow.
Sarti has been awarded One Chefs Hat and a score of 15/20 in the Age Good Food Guide between 2009-2012.
MY RATING (based on both visits): 14.5/20 - Food 7.5/10 Service 3.5/5 Ambience 3.5/5
http://www.sartirestaurant.com.au/
update: September 2012 - I have now eaten at Sarti another 5 times and have enjoyed amazing food and good, professional service on every occasion.
NEW RATING: 15+/20 - Food 8+/10 Service 3.5+/5 Ambience 3.5/5
To be fair I have visited Sarti twice over the past six months or so, and they were two rather different dining experiences - the food on both visits being quite impressive, but I guess the service is what really made the difference; the first episode being far too laxed, whilst the second being simply flawless from start to end. Episode one was also a little hit and miss with some of the food; whilst the second take was completely on the mark - so I guess as long as the mix of variables is right on the evening you are destined to do very well.
The menu at Sarti can best be described as modern Italian and is broken into pastas, smaller and larger plates and sweets. From everything I have read and heard about Sarti before and after my visits, the consensus seems to be that the stuzzichini (shared small dishes, like entrees) are the way to go: where you can structure a meal that will deliver on taste. The mains and pastas are consistent enough, but it is these smaller plates that best highlight the kitchens' creativity and these dishes were largely the basis of my experiences.
Here's a look at some of the hits you might enjoy:
Zucchini Flower: A gorgeous tempura battered zucchini flower filled with a delicate, shredded crab meat farce - light, crispy pefection.
Shallow fried calamari, pickled cauliflower ‘giadiniera’, tartare foam:
Beautiful tender pieces of calamari coated with a crispy polenta crust. The fritti sit on a bed of pickled cauliflower shreds and a light tartare foam, providing two different layers of acidity to break up the dish. The only downfall- excessively salty, but still very much enjoyed.
Calabrian Chilli Crab:
Crispy pieces of fried crab meat, resting on sweet stewed peppers. Not for the chilli-shy: This one really packed a punch.
Tempura Crab Claw:
Gorgeous, fresh, sweet crab meat served with a chilli-salt- Simple prefection.
Gyoza filled with 'cime di rapa', saute of morton bay bugs, basil seeds:
A really nice pasta dish- lots of delicate flavour, perfectly cooked and pretty as a picture. Again, difficult to fault.
Sauteed venison liver with caramalised onions and chickpeas:
A dish I should have loved & really wanted to love - but ultimately a failure. The liver was requested rare, but served cooked right through to an unpleasant level. A replacement dish had the same issue and for me was inedible. Apologies were made - and the dish no longer sits on the menu.
Braised veal cheeks, purple cauliflower cous cous, prosciutto consomme, black rice:
Another dish thats certainly not shy of the sodium, but the flavours were really beautiful. The most tender veal, parcelled and resting atop the toasted rice and other accompanishments, finished with a clear salty prosciutto broth poored at the table. A well executed main plate.
Chocolate and Orange:
Frozen candied orange, blood orange granita, chocolate sorbet and so much more - The bitter and sweet elements worked so well against each other to create a dish which was stunning in both aesthetics and taste. A very passionate waiter guided me through the preparation of the dolce, including the granita: house-made from fresh blood orange juice the restaurant imports from Italy.
White chocolate and native pepper cream, vin cotto, peanuts, apples:
After consuming several bottles of vino I can't remember too many intimates about this one- but needless to say it was lighter way to end the meal, and well enjoyed.
Overall I think Sarti is undoubtedly a great dining experience, where you can enjoy some excellent food in a casual (and noisy) environment; with service which is knowledgable, but relaxed. You could certainly call it a very "Melbourne" dining experience, but for me I don't quite know whether it is consistent enough to be hat worthy - the first take was miles off, whereas my second visit suggested the restaurant certainly deserves its accolades. I guess more research on my part is definitely necessary before I can make a final judgement - well thats my excuse for wanting to head back soon anyhow.
Sarti has been awarded One Chefs Hat and a score of 15/20 in the Age Good Food Guide between 2009-2012.
MY RATING (based on both visits): 14.5/20 - Food 7.5/10 Service 3.5/5 Ambience 3.5/5
http://www.sartirestaurant.com.au/
update: September 2012 - I have now eaten at Sarti another 5 times and have enjoyed amazing food and good, professional service on every occasion.
NEW RATING: 15+/20 - Food 8+/10 Service 3.5+/5 Ambience 3.5/5
Labels: REVIEWS: Fine Dining, Sarti Ristorante
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Vue de monde: as good as it gets
I could easily go on for hours reliving the joys of eating at Vue de monde. Instead I'm taking the easy option and going to make it simple by saying that this is Melbourne's best restaurant. The service is amazing, the setting like no other and the food and experience in general largely transports you to another world. Everything about Vue de monde is world class and completely refined. I have eaten at numerous 3-hat restaurants accross Australia over the years and Vue remains my number one. The food is highly creative and their presentations are ever-evolving. If you haven't been to Vue de monde salivate over the pictures and descriptions, save some dollars (or get a credit-limit increase cos it certainly aint cheap) and get your backside down there to see why this is Melbourne's best restaurant.
Here's a summary of one of my recent meals at Vue.
Amuse Bouche: Pea and jamon soup with a jamon tartare served with a confit quail yolk on a lettuce raft. A classy way to tickle the tastebuds.
SALADE DE JICAMA ET ORMEAUX
Jicama, braised abalone and crab salad with yuzu noodle and Sterling caviar. A very luxurious dish, carefully presented so each element can be enjoyed.
LINGUINI AUX TRUFFES
Linguini cooked in cep stock served with freshly shaved Manjimup truffle. In the mood for truffles I am presnted with this duo. A perfect linguini dish, finished with our exquisite Western Australian Manjimup truffles, dug up just days earlier. And a risoni of sorts, with fresh truffle gratings and some jellied cep spots.
PAIN PERDU ACCOMPAGNÉ DE FOIE GRAS
French toast, green apple purée and foie gras flavoured with eight spice and jamon Serrano Gran Reserva. Another indulgence. The idea being to re-construct the elements, making little sandwiches. Fantastic fun.
TRUITE POCHÉE
Poached coral trout with spring onion, parsley purée, mandarin and spices. A lighter dish: this delicate poached fish was just perfect; with numerous condiments allowing one to enjoy the course in a number of different ways.
POULET AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Poached breast and confit leg of chicken with handmade Brussels sprouts and mushroom reduction. Not one of the standout dishes: rather a good, clever chicken presentation. The "crackling" and brussels sprouts are very clever though - a reconstruction idea where a creamy brussels sprout filling is wrapped with the outer leaves making them look like the real thing. The crackling idea is also a bit of fun, and the chicken is well cooked but overall the dish does not excite me.
LIÈVRE POCHÉ
Poached loin of hare with a garlic purée, chestnut, yeast air and bread lattice. I'm lucky to be presented with this rare-breed hare dish towards the end of hare-season. The delicate meat is a joy to eat, just a shame the portion is so very small.
DÉCLINAISON DE BOEUF
Four textures of beef, checkerboard of white polenta and beef shin, crispy chilli intercostal, confit of sirloin and flank with a pumpkin and yuzu stuffed baby squash. To end the meal I insist upon some good wagyu and am presented with this creative dish of grade 9+ Blackmore's wagyu done 4-ways. Each presentation has its own texture; the chilli intercostal not working so great for me tasting slightly overcooked. The other portions: a simple showcase of some rather special meat.
PETITS-FOURS
The meal is concluded with a selection of miniature teacakes. Scaled down from previous heights to more appropriate proportions this selection of petits fours includes a campari panacotta of sorts, a miniature meringue and a chocolate-coated raspberry sorbet sphere, providing a perfect end to a faultless evening.
Whilst I certainly have not visited them all I think that Vue de monde is probably Melbourne's best and most creative dining room. Dinner at Vue is a special experience and well worth the month or so you may have to wait for table. If you can think of a better place to eat in Melbourne I definitely want to know about it.
Vue de monde has been elevated back to three hat status in the 2009 Age Good Food Guide receiving a score of 18.5 out of 20.
MY RATING: 19.5/20 - Food 9.5/10 Service 5/5 Ambience 5/5 - A near perfect dining experience.
Here's a summary of one of my recent meals at Vue.
Amuse Bouche: Pea and jamon soup with a jamon tartare served with a confit quail yolk on a lettuce raft. A classy way to tickle the tastebuds.
SALADE DE JICAMA ET ORMEAUX
Jicama, braised abalone and crab salad with yuzu noodle and Sterling caviar. A very luxurious dish, carefully presented so each element can be enjoyed.
LINGUINI AUX TRUFFES
Linguini cooked in cep stock served with freshly shaved Manjimup truffle. In the mood for truffles I am presnted with this duo. A perfect linguini dish, finished with our exquisite Western Australian Manjimup truffles, dug up just days earlier. And a risoni of sorts, with fresh truffle gratings and some jellied cep spots.
PAIN PERDU ACCOMPAGNÉ DE FOIE GRAS
French toast, green apple purée and foie gras flavoured with eight spice and jamon Serrano Gran Reserva. Another indulgence. The idea being to re-construct the elements, making little sandwiches. Fantastic fun.
TRUITE POCHÉE
Poached coral trout with spring onion, parsley purée, mandarin and spices. A lighter dish: this delicate poached fish was just perfect; with numerous condiments allowing one to enjoy the course in a number of different ways.
POULET AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Poached breast and confit leg of chicken with handmade Brussels sprouts and mushroom reduction. Not one of the standout dishes: rather a good, clever chicken presentation. The "crackling" and brussels sprouts are very clever though - a reconstruction idea where a creamy brussels sprout filling is wrapped with the outer leaves making them look like the real thing. The crackling idea is also a bit of fun, and the chicken is well cooked but overall the dish does not excite me.
LIÈVRE POCHÉ
Poached loin of hare with a garlic purée, chestnut, yeast air and bread lattice. I'm lucky to be presented with this rare-breed hare dish towards the end of hare-season. The delicate meat is a joy to eat, just a shame the portion is so very small.
DÉCLINAISON DE BOEUF
Four textures of beef, checkerboard of white polenta and beef shin, crispy chilli intercostal, confit of sirloin and flank with a pumpkin and yuzu stuffed baby squash. To end the meal I insist upon some good wagyu and am presented with this creative dish of grade 9+ Blackmore's wagyu done 4-ways. Each presentation has its own texture; the chilli intercostal not working so great for me tasting slightly overcooked. The other portions: a simple showcase of some rather special meat.
PETITS-FOURS
The meal is concluded with a selection of miniature teacakes. Scaled down from previous heights to more appropriate proportions this selection of petits fours includes a campari panacotta of sorts, a miniature meringue and a chocolate-coated raspberry sorbet sphere, providing a perfect end to a faultless evening.
Whilst I certainly have not visited them all I think that Vue de monde is probably Melbourne's best and most creative dining room. Dinner at Vue is a special experience and well worth the month or so you may have to wait for table. If you can think of a better place to eat in Melbourne I definitely want to know about it.
Vue de monde has been elevated back to three hat status in the 2009 Age Good Food Guide receiving a score of 18.5 out of 20.
MY RATING: 19.5/20 - Food 9.5/10 Service 5/5 Ambience 5/5 - A near perfect dining experience.
Labels: REVIEWS: Fine Dining, Vue de monde
Friday, September 26, 2008
The Point - Albert Park
The Point is a restaurant, which certainly has a lot going for it. A great location with some of the most picturesque views in Melbourne, overlooking Albert Park lake. The views however are certainly not the only drawcard: the amazing food, stellar wine list and polite, professional service all make The Point one of Melbourne's premier dining destinations.
On Thursday night I dined at The Point for the first time and was mighty impressed with the entire experience. Upon arrival I am promptly presented with iced water, rather than being pressured into buying still or sparkling - something that should be standard. The room itself is very welcoming: temperature set to a pleasant level; a smart, modern dining room with nicely dressed tables and stunning views over Albert Park lake. Attention to detail is high. One comes to appreciate the fact that linen has been pressed and that stemware and crockery are of a high quality including steak knives by Laguiole. The fine dining elements all exist at The Point with amuse bouches and gueles provided as standard, all in an environment that is casual and classy at the same time. A mixed crowd of suits, alongside yuppies in jeans and thongs: everyone seems to fit in.
The service team is also a mixed bunch of young and old and they do a good job of guiding guests throughout the evening and ensuring that the experience is a good one. There is very little for one to quibble about: an observation however that the slick silver service standards are not completely universal across all staff. Skimming the place over with a fine toothcomb I did notice expensive wine being poured at a nearby table with the label being covered during service and without twisting at the end resulting in drippage. Little things that could be perfected amongst all staff, particularly when most are getting it right. Credit must also be paid for the rather impeccable timing with the wait staff personalising service and ensuring a leisurely dining experience with each course arriving at just the right moment: something that I appreciate is not always easy to control.
Moving onto the food there is much to be said. The menu reads very well and everything I tried certainly lived up to my expectations. Throughout the evening warm crusty bread rolls and good olive oil are provided, and to whet the palette a refreshing ceviche is offered as an amuse, which showcases the kitchens ability to meld fresh flavours together with a light touch.
Amuse Bouche: Salmon and Marron ceviche, with fresh blood orange and salmon pearls.
Onto entrees I decide upon one of the lighter sounding options: a spanner crab tortellini assortment, which does not disappoint. On the plate we have a perfect tortelli cylinder filled with a smooth spanner crab farce, coupled with two plump scallops, the freshness of which cannot be understated along with some steamed greens, salmon pearls, fresh lemon balm (a subtle mint-like herb) and a light crayfish scented foam. The plate is finished with a light lemon oil that provides another flavour dimension to the dish and a slight tangy contrast. Highly successful.
Spanner Crab Tortellini, seared scallops, crayfish air and baby lemon balm ($24).
To drink: 2007 Sancerre Le Pierrier – Loire Valley ($14/gl)
For mains The Point has a good variety of meat and seafood, but it is the selection of steaks that they are most famous for. At the upstairs entrance to the dining room a display case exists, showcasing each of the beef cuts on offer for the diners' inspection. They all look great and with an individual choice proving tough I opt for the Beef Tasting plate, which provides a generous sampling of five of their best. The top of the plate houses Grade 8 300-day grain fed wagyu porterhouse slices from Yambinya, NSW. The wagyu has been finished with a sweet red wine jus and is topped with some fried onion crisps. The unmistakable meatiness and gelatinous texture of wagyu immediately comes across and it is amongst some of the best I have tried; cooked and rested to a perfect medium rare.
Across the plate lie four other cuts of beef. From left to right sit: pasture fed eye fillet from King Island and porterhouse from Longford, Tasmania then grain fed eye fillet and porterhouse from Yambinya. Each of the cuts has its own flavour and texture. The eye fillet with its amazing tenderness and the porterhouse with its distinct meaty flavour. As an observation I am somewhat surprised that the grain fed beef proves superior to the pasture fed. The colour, flavour and tenderness all reign supreme; particularly with the porterhouse, where the grass fed cut lacks the robust flavour and softer texture of its grain fed counterpart. The beef is served with a small presentation of crisp coleslaw topped with a julienne of fried black seaweed, as well as a syrupy red wine jus, and a selection of mustards, which I do not deem necessary. I am urged to try each of the different cuts on their own before pouring on the jus. This is an excellent way to compare the differences of each portion and appreciate the true flavour of the meat. On its own the beef was slightly under seasoned but a small grinding of salt perfected that. To accompany my steak I am offered a French pinot as a wine matching: going with a lighter style to enable one to better taste the differences between the steaks without overwhelming the tastebuds with a heavier style: definitely a good idea. Needless to say, I enjoyed the entire selection and I am congratulated on my accomplishment at the end of the journey.
For the quality and serving of steak on offer the pricing is very reasonable, particularly given the inclusion of such high grade wagyu on the plate.
Beef Tasting Plate: individual portions of wagyu, grain and pasture fed beef ($49).
To drink: 2005 Joseph Drouhin Rully Rouge – Burgundy ($18/gl)
A crisp, cos based (Caesar-like) salad proves itself a good side dish.
Baby gem lettuce, crisp pancetta, white anchovies and charred sourdough ($9).
After dinner a refreshing amuse guele follows.
Pineapple jelly with pina colada sorbet. Sublime.
After this feast I don't really have room for dessert but am determined to try one of the enticing options before parting. After a sufficient gap, enabling my stomach to settle, my waiter recommends ordering something I haven't had in a while. He mentions that his wife is French and that she loves the tart tatin, finding it as good as those she has experienced at home. With this sought of endorsement I cannot say no and am sure glad that I didn't. There is a noticeable French technique amongst much of the cooking, particularly in the deserts department and whilst I cannot personally compare it to the real thing in France, the tart tatin was definitely the best dessert I have had in some time. A sensational flaky crust with soft apples, sticky caramel and a creamy, spiced ice cream melting away alongside the light as a feather vanilla espuma; both of which make perfect accompaniments. To go with dessert I am also provided with an obligatory pouring of sauternes - a gesture I am most thankful for.
Apple tart Tatin, star anise and cinnamon ice cream, praline crumbs and vanilla espumas ($18).
To drink: 2005 Romieu Lacoste Sauternes
To conclude the journey I enjoy an invigorating ginger and lemongrass tisane before parting ways with The Point until next time. I enjoyed every moment of the dining experience and believe this is a restaurant that probably isn’t receiving the credit that it deserves, somehow being overlooked for a hat in this years’ Age Good Food Guide.
The Point received a score of 14.5 out of 20 in the 2009 Age Good Food Guide.
MY RATING: 16.5/20 - Food: 8.5/10 Service: 4/5 Ambience: 4/5
On Thursday night I dined at The Point for the first time and was mighty impressed with the entire experience. Upon arrival I am promptly presented with iced water, rather than being pressured into buying still or sparkling - something that should be standard. The room itself is very welcoming: temperature set to a pleasant level; a smart, modern dining room with nicely dressed tables and stunning views over Albert Park lake. Attention to detail is high. One comes to appreciate the fact that linen has been pressed and that stemware and crockery are of a high quality including steak knives by Laguiole. The fine dining elements all exist at The Point with amuse bouches and gueles provided as standard, all in an environment that is casual and classy at the same time. A mixed crowd of suits, alongside yuppies in jeans and thongs: everyone seems to fit in.
The service team is also a mixed bunch of young and old and they do a good job of guiding guests throughout the evening and ensuring that the experience is a good one. There is very little for one to quibble about: an observation however that the slick silver service standards are not completely universal across all staff. Skimming the place over with a fine toothcomb I did notice expensive wine being poured at a nearby table with the label being covered during service and without twisting at the end resulting in drippage. Little things that could be perfected amongst all staff, particularly when most are getting it right. Credit must also be paid for the rather impeccable timing with the wait staff personalising service and ensuring a leisurely dining experience with each course arriving at just the right moment: something that I appreciate is not always easy to control.
Moving onto the food there is much to be said. The menu reads very well and everything I tried certainly lived up to my expectations. Throughout the evening warm crusty bread rolls and good olive oil are provided, and to whet the palette a refreshing ceviche is offered as an amuse, which showcases the kitchens ability to meld fresh flavours together with a light touch.
Amuse Bouche: Salmon and Marron ceviche, with fresh blood orange and salmon pearls.
Onto entrees I decide upon one of the lighter sounding options: a spanner crab tortellini assortment, which does not disappoint. On the plate we have a perfect tortelli cylinder filled with a smooth spanner crab farce, coupled with two plump scallops, the freshness of which cannot be understated along with some steamed greens, salmon pearls, fresh lemon balm (a subtle mint-like herb) and a light crayfish scented foam. The plate is finished with a light lemon oil that provides another flavour dimension to the dish and a slight tangy contrast. Highly successful.
Spanner Crab Tortellini, seared scallops, crayfish air and baby lemon balm ($24).
To drink: 2007 Sancerre Le Pierrier – Loire Valley ($14/gl)
For mains The Point has a good variety of meat and seafood, but it is the selection of steaks that they are most famous for. At the upstairs entrance to the dining room a display case exists, showcasing each of the beef cuts on offer for the diners' inspection. They all look great and with an individual choice proving tough I opt for the Beef Tasting plate, which provides a generous sampling of five of their best. The top of the plate houses Grade 8 300-day grain fed wagyu porterhouse slices from Yambinya, NSW. The wagyu has been finished with a sweet red wine jus and is topped with some fried onion crisps. The unmistakable meatiness and gelatinous texture of wagyu immediately comes across and it is amongst some of the best I have tried; cooked and rested to a perfect medium rare.
Across the plate lie four other cuts of beef. From left to right sit: pasture fed eye fillet from King Island and porterhouse from Longford, Tasmania then grain fed eye fillet and porterhouse from Yambinya. Each of the cuts has its own flavour and texture. The eye fillet with its amazing tenderness and the porterhouse with its distinct meaty flavour. As an observation I am somewhat surprised that the grain fed beef proves superior to the pasture fed. The colour, flavour and tenderness all reign supreme; particularly with the porterhouse, where the grass fed cut lacks the robust flavour and softer texture of its grain fed counterpart. The beef is served with a small presentation of crisp coleslaw topped with a julienne of fried black seaweed, as well as a syrupy red wine jus, and a selection of mustards, which I do not deem necessary. I am urged to try each of the different cuts on their own before pouring on the jus. This is an excellent way to compare the differences of each portion and appreciate the true flavour of the meat. On its own the beef was slightly under seasoned but a small grinding of salt perfected that. To accompany my steak I am offered a French pinot as a wine matching: going with a lighter style to enable one to better taste the differences between the steaks without overwhelming the tastebuds with a heavier style: definitely a good idea. Needless to say, I enjoyed the entire selection and I am congratulated on my accomplishment at the end of the journey.
For the quality and serving of steak on offer the pricing is very reasonable, particularly given the inclusion of such high grade wagyu on the plate.
Beef Tasting Plate: individual portions of wagyu, grain and pasture fed beef ($49).
To drink: 2005 Joseph Drouhin Rully Rouge – Burgundy ($18/gl)
A crisp, cos based (Caesar-like) salad proves itself a good side dish.
Baby gem lettuce, crisp pancetta, white anchovies and charred sourdough ($9).
After dinner a refreshing amuse guele follows.
Pineapple jelly with pina colada sorbet. Sublime.
After this feast I don't really have room for dessert but am determined to try one of the enticing options before parting. After a sufficient gap, enabling my stomach to settle, my waiter recommends ordering something I haven't had in a while. He mentions that his wife is French and that she loves the tart tatin, finding it as good as those she has experienced at home. With this sought of endorsement I cannot say no and am sure glad that I didn't. There is a noticeable French technique amongst much of the cooking, particularly in the deserts department and whilst I cannot personally compare it to the real thing in France, the tart tatin was definitely the best dessert I have had in some time. A sensational flaky crust with soft apples, sticky caramel and a creamy, spiced ice cream melting away alongside the light as a feather vanilla espuma; both of which make perfect accompaniments. To go with dessert I am also provided with an obligatory pouring of sauternes - a gesture I am most thankful for.
Apple tart Tatin, star anise and cinnamon ice cream, praline crumbs and vanilla espumas ($18).
To drink: 2005 Romieu Lacoste Sauternes
To conclude the journey I enjoy an invigorating ginger and lemongrass tisane before parting ways with The Point until next time. I enjoyed every moment of the dining experience and believe this is a restaurant that probably isn’t receiving the credit that it deserves, somehow being overlooked for a hat in this years’ Age Good Food Guide.
The Point received a score of 14.5 out of 20 in the 2009 Age Good Food Guide.
MY RATING: 16.5/20 - Food: 8.5/10 Service: 4/5 Ambience: 4/5
Labels: REVIEWS: Fine Dining, The Point
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
ezard: pre-theatre tasting menu
ezard has definitely got to be one of my favourite restaurants in Melbourne. I love the style of food presented at this contemporary Mod Oz restaurant and every dish is always a delight to look at and consume. I recently visited ezard before heading off to see Wicked at the Regent and was lucky enough to sample the pre-theatre menu and a couple of glasses of excellent wine to match.
The pre-theatre menu starts off with a beautiful light course of kingfish sashimi. It is served thinly sliced, layered with a small quantity of creamy sesame custard and a julienne of fresh pears. The plate is finished with a lime dressing and some droplets of sticky caramel. Delightful textures and pretty as a picture. I can't complain about this course.
The next course is this stunning presentation of wild mushroom tortelli. The single pasta cylinder rests upon a rectangle of sweet wagyu salami and the construction is completed with a soft herb salad and a crisp deep fried lotus root chip. The smell is amazing as the dish is finished with real truffle oil and an intense mushroom jus. The pasta is perfect. When broken into a filling of finely diced mushrooms is revealed and together with the truffle oil and salad elements it really is a delight to eat.
The main course presentation is the sichuan peppered duck. Served with a slight pinkness the meat is perfectly tender and has beautifully rendered skin. The accompaniments are some wok-tossed silkmelon, an amazing coconut rice that I probably enjoy a little too much and its all finished with a sweet, sticky coconut and tumeric dressing. The dish has not changed a lot over the past few years, but like a couple of the other menu stalwarts it has been tweaked a little to remain interesting.
The series ends with a light dessert option. A sphere of refreshing granny smith apple sorbet with some apple crisps and a gingerbread crunch crumbled around the plate. A nice way to cleanse the palette and end an excellent meal.
The pre-theatre menu at ezard regularly changes and costs $65 for four courses, which represents fair value. The courses are degustation sized as opposed to what you may receive if you order a la carte and you will consequently leave satisfied, rather than stuffed. All done with impeccable timing as well leaving you with plenty of time to get you to your show.
ezard reamins one of my favourite places to eat. The service is amongst the best in the business, the food is creative and original and the experience is one which I always thoroughly enjoy. Quite possibly my favourite restaurant in Melbourne. Consistently excellent.
MY RATING: 18/20 - Food 9/10 Service 4.5/5 Ambience 4.5/5 - Hard to fault in almost any aspect. Definitely one of Melbourne's best.
Ezard has previously been comprehensively reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here
The pre-theatre menu starts off with a beautiful light course of kingfish sashimi. It is served thinly sliced, layered with a small quantity of creamy sesame custard and a julienne of fresh pears. The plate is finished with a lime dressing and some droplets of sticky caramel. Delightful textures and pretty as a picture. I can't complain about this course.
The next course is this stunning presentation of wild mushroom tortelli. The single pasta cylinder rests upon a rectangle of sweet wagyu salami and the construction is completed with a soft herb salad and a crisp deep fried lotus root chip. The smell is amazing as the dish is finished with real truffle oil and an intense mushroom jus. The pasta is perfect. When broken into a filling of finely diced mushrooms is revealed and together with the truffle oil and salad elements it really is a delight to eat.
The main course presentation is the sichuan peppered duck. Served with a slight pinkness the meat is perfectly tender and has beautifully rendered skin. The accompaniments are some wok-tossed silkmelon, an amazing coconut rice that I probably enjoy a little too much and its all finished with a sweet, sticky coconut and tumeric dressing. The dish has not changed a lot over the past few years, but like a couple of the other menu stalwarts it has been tweaked a little to remain interesting.
The series ends with a light dessert option. A sphere of refreshing granny smith apple sorbet with some apple crisps and a gingerbread crunch crumbled around the plate. A nice way to cleanse the palette and end an excellent meal.
The pre-theatre menu at ezard regularly changes and costs $65 for four courses, which represents fair value. The courses are degustation sized as opposed to what you may receive if you order a la carte and you will consequently leave satisfied, rather than stuffed. All done with impeccable timing as well leaving you with plenty of time to get you to your show.
ezard reamins one of my favourite places to eat. The service is amongst the best in the business, the food is creative and original and the experience is one which I always thoroughly enjoy. Quite possibly my favourite restaurant in Melbourne. Consistently excellent.
MY RATING: 18/20 - Food 9/10 Service 4.5/5 Ambience 4.5/5 - Hard to fault in almost any aspect. Definitely one of Melbourne's best.
Ezard has previously been comprehensively reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here
Labels: Ezard, REVIEWS: Fine Dining
Saturday, August 2, 2008
Rockpool Bar & Grill (Melbourne, re-visited)
There has been a lot of buzz about the Crown restaurant precinct as of late and its with good reason I would suggest. The complex now houses many of the big names including: Nobu, The Brasserie, Guiseppe Arnaldo & Sons, Bistro Guillaume and of course, Rockpool Bar and Grill. Craving a good piece of steak, and having not eaten any red meat for many weeks I really could not think of a better place to visit. So I made a booking and wandered down to Rockpool with great anticipation.
I must firstly comment that service seems to have really stepped up since my prior visits earlier in the year. I was warmly greeted and well looked after throughout the entire evening. There seems to be a bit more finesse than there has been in the past and I did not notice any arrogance from the staff, which is definitely an improvement from what myself and others seem to have previosuly experienced.
As I have mentioned before Rockpool Bar & Grill is a large restaurant, seating 150 guests, and more in the bar. The emphasis is on the freshest, best quality produce: featuring house aged steaks hung in a cool room at the front of the premise, live seafood and shellfish kept in tanks and prepared "espresso" to your order. Fish that is dry filleted to maintain freshness and much more. It is all the real deal here, and you can taste it in the food.
On the night I dined I begun with the scallops ceviche ($32): four live scallops, served on the shell with a tangy citrus dressing and a range of the most finely diced condiments including chilli, ginger and cilantro. There is no denying that these were the freshest scallops I have ever had the pleasure of eating, and they certainly provided a sublime tasting experience.
After the sensational scallops I soon received what I had come here for: my steak fix. I decided upon the New York cut ($60) after observing other diners eating this on my last visit and moaning with delight. It proved to be a beautiful piece of meat, which had been aged for 45 days and served cut, along with the bone. Cooked rare, the meat was most enjoyed: tender, full of flavour and perfectly seasoned. Along with a wonderful harissa condiment and the ultra fluffy bernaise and horseradish cream this was a first class meal. I savoured every mouthful.
To go with this special piece of meat I ordered the boiled greens dressed with lemon and extra virgin olive oil ($8). I was a bit skeptical that they were boiled, rather than steamed but I need not have been. What I got was a perfect bowl of brocolini, cabbage and leek, each with a wonderful crunch and subtle coating of olive oil. A really nice side to the steak.
I should also mention that all of the sides I have had here are exceptionally good: the gratins, mushrooms and salads are each worthy of praise in their own right.
With no room for dessert, and trying to keep the meal moderately healthy I part ways with Rockpool and have my coat retrieved for me; something which has not occured in the past and I leave rather impressed having enjoyed a seemingly simple meal, that was certainly up there with the best that I have had in recent times. I have also decided that whenever I feel like a good steak Rockpool is going to be my first point of call: after all life is way too short to be eating bad meat.
Rockpool Melbourne seems to be going from strength to strength and its success has been proven, with plans well under way for another Rockpool Bar and Grill set to open shortly in Sydney. It takes a lot of work to get a restaurant of this size running well and it looks like Melbourne's Rockpool is just about there.
Rockpool Bar and Grill has previously been reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here
MY RATING: 17/20 - Food 9/10 Ambience: 4/5 Service: 4/5
I must firstly comment that service seems to have really stepped up since my prior visits earlier in the year. I was warmly greeted and well looked after throughout the entire evening. There seems to be a bit more finesse than there has been in the past and I did not notice any arrogance from the staff, which is definitely an improvement from what myself and others seem to have previosuly experienced.
As I have mentioned before Rockpool Bar & Grill is a large restaurant, seating 150 guests, and more in the bar. The emphasis is on the freshest, best quality produce: featuring house aged steaks hung in a cool room at the front of the premise, live seafood and shellfish kept in tanks and prepared "espresso" to your order. Fish that is dry filleted to maintain freshness and much more. It is all the real deal here, and you can taste it in the food.
On the night I dined I begun with the scallops ceviche ($32): four live scallops, served on the shell with a tangy citrus dressing and a range of the most finely diced condiments including chilli, ginger and cilantro. There is no denying that these were the freshest scallops I have ever had the pleasure of eating, and they certainly provided a sublime tasting experience.
After the sensational scallops I soon received what I had come here for: my steak fix. I decided upon the New York cut ($60) after observing other diners eating this on my last visit and moaning with delight. It proved to be a beautiful piece of meat, which had been aged for 45 days and served cut, along with the bone. Cooked rare, the meat was most enjoyed: tender, full of flavour and perfectly seasoned. Along with a wonderful harissa condiment and the ultra fluffy bernaise and horseradish cream this was a first class meal. I savoured every mouthful.
To go with this special piece of meat I ordered the boiled greens dressed with lemon and extra virgin olive oil ($8). I was a bit skeptical that they were boiled, rather than steamed but I need not have been. What I got was a perfect bowl of brocolini, cabbage and leek, each with a wonderful crunch and subtle coating of olive oil. A really nice side to the steak.
I should also mention that all of the sides I have had here are exceptionally good: the gratins, mushrooms and salads are each worthy of praise in their own right.
With no room for dessert, and trying to keep the meal moderately healthy I part ways with Rockpool and have my coat retrieved for me; something which has not occured in the past and I leave rather impressed having enjoyed a seemingly simple meal, that was certainly up there with the best that I have had in recent times. I have also decided that whenever I feel like a good steak Rockpool is going to be my first point of call: after all life is way too short to be eating bad meat.
Rockpool Melbourne seems to be going from strength to strength and its success has been proven, with plans well under way for another Rockpool Bar and Grill set to open shortly in Sydney. It takes a lot of work to get a restaurant of this size running well and it looks like Melbourne's Rockpool is just about there.
Rockpool Bar and Grill has previously been reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here
MY RATING: 17/20 - Food 9/10 Ambience: 4/5 Service: 4/5
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Bistro Guillaume: dinner @ the bar
A few weeks back I decided to hit the city with friends Robert and Kat. Originally planning on having dinner at GA&S we didn't feel like waiting around, so strolled along the riverfront looking for other options. Rockpool was one possibility but it was also full so I decided that the Bistro Guillaume bar might be nice, so off we went occupying one of their snazzy leather booths. I won't go on much further about the setting as I have already reviewed the restaurant and bar before, but its just so well fit out and comfortable. Yes, its dark but its intimate, with soft lighting, wood tones and mood music. Its definitely the sort of place you could relax in all night, and the fact that the full menu is available is definitely a positive.
We begin the evening with some cocktails, which are good, but not in a league of their own. For great coktails (and food) I think Longrain is definitely a standout.
I order the Gin Sin, which is rather fruity and does not kick a punch at all. The other two cocktails, the names of which I cannot recall were significantly better with more dimensions and creativity.
For food we start off with some of the tapas to share, going for the six choice option ($33): choosing two plump oysters with a shallot and red wine vinegar, a double serve of the excellent house smoked salmon with creme fraiche and toasted brioche, a double serve of the steak tartare, which is spicy and well seasoned, but not as fine as that which I sampled on my last visit; and finally the rabbit terrine, which is not really a terrine at all, but more of a chunky pate that is really not that good on its own, lacking the sweet mango chutney, which accompanied it so well on my last visit.
For mains I simply cannot go past the now famous Bistro Guillaume fish and chips - whole whiting with pommes Pont-Neuf and beurre maitre d'hotel ($45): This is quite possibly Melbourne's best whole fish. Others have spoke about overly thick crumbing in the opening weeks. This one has a very light crumb layer and is cooked perfectly. The resulting flesh is super tender and breaking away and the accompanying maitre d'hotel butter absolutely delightful - the herbs and garlic complimenting the fish perfectly. The pedestal of fat chips were also good, but lacked the crunch and flavour of those from Bistro Vue. The fish though made up for it. I can tell you that there wasn't much left on the plate after I had dissected it from every angle, determined to get value. After all this was a $45 fish. And a glass of wine from the uber expensive list set me back another $20.
Duck confit with Brussels sprouts, speck and mustard sauce ($35): Kat's dish. A well cooked leg of duck sits atop a creamy concoction of brussels sprouts and speck. The duck has been confit perfectly and falls right off the bone. As a dish it seems very good: but probably no better than you would get at other restaurants of this level.
Steak frites, sauce a la bordelaise ($35): Again, good steak, cooked well with a nice sauce. Its tender and everything you expect a steak to be. Robert proclaimed that it was one of the best steaks he had eaten. I probably wouldn't go that far. The accompanying frites were rather average: still unsure as to whether they were freshly cut or frozen.
Desserts were omitted, opting for gelato later in the evening.
Overall Bistro Guillaume provides an excellent dining experience and I particularly love the atmosphere of the bar. Service was once again fairly slick and it was difficult to find too much fault with the evening.
MY RATING: 17.5/20 - Food: 8.5/10 Service: 4/5 Ambience-bar: 5/5 (My view may be biased, but I just love the bar setting)
www.bistroguillaume.com.au
Bistro Guillaume has also been reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here and here
We begin the evening with some cocktails, which are good, but not in a league of their own. For great coktails (and food) I think Longrain is definitely a standout.
I order the Gin Sin, which is rather fruity and does not kick a punch at all. The other two cocktails, the names of which I cannot recall were significantly better with more dimensions and creativity.
For food we start off with some of the tapas to share, going for the six choice option ($33): choosing two plump oysters with a shallot and red wine vinegar, a double serve of the excellent house smoked salmon with creme fraiche and toasted brioche, a double serve of the steak tartare, which is spicy and well seasoned, but not as fine as that which I sampled on my last visit; and finally the rabbit terrine, which is not really a terrine at all, but more of a chunky pate that is really not that good on its own, lacking the sweet mango chutney, which accompanied it so well on my last visit.
For mains I simply cannot go past the now famous Bistro Guillaume fish and chips - whole whiting with pommes Pont-Neuf and beurre maitre d'hotel ($45): This is quite possibly Melbourne's best whole fish. Others have spoke about overly thick crumbing in the opening weeks. This one has a very light crumb layer and is cooked perfectly. The resulting flesh is super tender and breaking away and the accompanying maitre d'hotel butter absolutely delightful - the herbs and garlic complimenting the fish perfectly. The pedestal of fat chips were also good, but lacked the crunch and flavour of those from Bistro Vue. The fish though made up for it. I can tell you that there wasn't much left on the plate after I had dissected it from every angle, determined to get value. After all this was a $45 fish. And a glass of wine from the uber expensive list set me back another $20.
Duck confit with Brussels sprouts, speck and mustard sauce ($35): Kat's dish. A well cooked leg of duck sits atop a creamy concoction of brussels sprouts and speck. The duck has been confit perfectly and falls right off the bone. As a dish it seems very good: but probably no better than you would get at other restaurants of this level.
Steak frites, sauce a la bordelaise ($35): Again, good steak, cooked well with a nice sauce. Its tender and everything you expect a steak to be. Robert proclaimed that it was one of the best steaks he had eaten. I probably wouldn't go that far. The accompanying frites were rather average: still unsure as to whether they were freshly cut or frozen.
Desserts were omitted, opting for gelato later in the evening.
Overall Bistro Guillaume provides an excellent dining experience and I particularly love the atmosphere of the bar. Service was once again fairly slick and it was difficult to find too much fault with the evening.
MY RATING: 17.5/20 - Food: 8.5/10 Service: 4/5 Ambience-bar: 5/5 (My view may be biased, but I just love the bar setting)
www.bistroguillaume.com.au
Bistro Guillaume has also been reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here and here
Labels: Bistro Guillaume, REVIEWS: Fine Dining
