Welcome to Melbourne Foodie. The blogspace of a young foodie with a passion for cooking, fine dining and quality food and produce.
Melbourne Foodie, along with the other sources I write for is my way of casually expressing and recording some of the experiences I have had for others to enjoy. I always welcome any feedback,
comments or restaurant suggestions you may have and would love to hear from you soon.
MUST VISIT SOON: Livingroom, Hare & Grace
MOST RECENT FEASTINGS: Pei Modern, Sarti, PM24, Vue de Monde
BLOG OF THE MOMENT: I Eat Therefore I Am
Happy eating,
Jon!
Saturday, April 21, 2012
Ezard - The Degustation Experience!
"Restaurants like ezard change your perception of the dining experience"
(The Age Good Food Guide).... An old quote, but one that certainly still reigns true today.
Ezard is a restaurant that I will always love. It really is a very special place; special to me, because it was one of the first "hatted" restaurants I had the privelege of visiting when I embarked upon my foodie adventures, back in my teenage years. I remember saving for several weeks back then to build up the funds to go and spoil myself. That first experience was a full degustation dinner, similar to the one I'm going to share with you below.
Since that first gastronimc adventure I have continued to visit Ezard, perhaps three or four times a year; and to be honest not a lot has really changed, nor should it have.
The restaurant has however undergone some minor face-lifts over time and the menu has gradually evolved and become sharper, more creative and more refined than ever before. Like a good bottle of wine, Ezard has become that little bit better with age.
Ezard use to be termed a "Modern Australian" restaurant, a term which is now overused. The cuisine here is creative - it relies upon the freshest local produce, and fuses various differnt cooking styles, techniques and flavour combinations from around the world, to create a unique and memorable dining experience. Today we often term this stlye of food as "Contemporary" but this is so much more.
Chef Teague Ezard describes his food as "Australian freestyle" - a term I love. He says "the most obvious influences are the traditional dishes of the great Asian cuisines, including Chinese and Thai."
Ezard showcases true fusion cooking. "Fusion may be an overworked word, but the food it describes is not."
I am going to keep this review brief - and instead provide a very brief snapshot of each dish from the current Degustation Menu - needless to say a sublime meal was had. On this occasion we decided against the matched wine flight and chose to enjoy a bottle of Ten Minutes by Tractor "Estate", a luscious "new world" Chardonnay which perfectly matched the early dishes, followed by glasses of a beautiful Cotes Du Rone & Pinot Noir which assisted the enjoyment of the latter "meat" courses.
The Degustation Experience (April 2012):
Japanese inspired oyster shooter:
A signature dish on the ezard menu for many years. Here sits a fresh shucked oyster, in a sweet, but racey flamed off sake/mirin/chilli dressing. To finish a rice-noodle nori roll..... One was simply not enough - so we had another couple each afterwards.
A signature dish on the ezard menu for many years. Here sits a fresh shucked oyster, in a sweet, but racey flamed off sake/mirin/chilli dressing. To finish a rice-noodle nori roll..... One was simply not enough - so we had another couple each afterwards.
Vodka and citrus cured salmon, beetroot crisp, finger lime, wasabi aioli and shiso cress:
Gorgeous, sikly salmon segments, with a creamy aioli, sweet betroot puree and crisp. A very elegently executed presentation.
Steamed blue swimmer crab dumpling with yarra valley salmon roe, celery cress and tom kha:
By far the most peopular entree on the menu we are told. The description speaks for itself. A pefectly steamed dumpling, filled with a sweet crab meat farce. The plate is filled with beautiful, bustling salmon pearls - which just "pop" in the mouth and finished with a silky, luscious, spiced tom kha broth at the table.
Asparagus, persian feta and witlof salad, poached quail egg, hazelnuts and soft herbs:
A beautiful light salad. Robust goodness from the quail egg, that oh so creamy persian fetta and the dill atop helps balance all the flavours.
Coconut grilled ocean trout with asian gazpacho, heirloom tomatoes, creme fraiche, hot and sour salad:
Perfect roasted trout which just falls apart, a light semi-sweet gazpacho, and of course the hot and sourness from the chilli-herb salad balanced with the creamy and refreshing creme fraiche.
Char-siu quail with mandarin pancake, lime and cucumber salad and roasted rice:
A little bonus for us. Small segments of deboned, roasted quail meat, beautifully sweet and sticky. A rice-paper mandarin "pancake". A tangy salad provides that extra "Asian" element and the roasted rice provides a textural "crunch".
Slow cooked bangalow pork belly, apple pudding, fennel, white peach, calvados jus:
Sweet, gelatinous goodness. Apply pudding is your puree and the calvados jus adds some extra richness and "wow" to the dish.
Chinese style roast duck, green chilli and oyster sauce dressing with coconut rice and asian greens:
Another menu stalwart, and one of my favourites which has undergone some minor changes to keep up with the times, but kept the same major elements. Roasted, pink, tender duck breast slices sit atop the oh so sweet coconut rice and lightly wilted greens. Finished with a chilli-asian salad and sweet potato crisps and a light/sweet/spicy dressung the dish is simply a winner - and remains a favourite with regular punters for good reason.
ezard dessert tasting plate to share:
Would you really want to finish off a magical meal any other way. Six sublime deserts including an indulgent chocolate and passionfruit torte, pistachio frangipane and my all-time ezard desert favourite - the oh so delivious "honeycrunch icecream" resting upon a toasted gingerbread snap and finished with a sweet sugar swirl.... Heaven!
After eating here regularly for the last eight years Ezard remains my favourite dining destnation in Melbourne.... A very special restaurant; and thankfully one I can now access on a more regular basis. The food is always creative and impressive. You always feel comfortable, and the small basements space feels spacious, even if the tables are rather close. Another big drawcard is Ezard's service, which is faultless; perfectly balancing professionalism with passion, knowledge and witt - the ingredients for success.
Ezard received a score of 17 out of 20 in the 2012 Age Good Food Guide and was awarded Two Chefs Hats, a status it has held for the last five years, before experiencing three. Its been running strong since 1999 and I think it is worthy of Three Hats, but maybe I'm just a tad bit biased.
MY RATING: 18.5/20 - Food 9/10 Service 5/5 Ambience 4.5/5 - Truly one of Australia's great dining destinations.
http://www.ezard.com.au/
http://www.ezard.com.au/
Labels: Ezard, REVIEWS: Fine Dining
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
ezard: pre-theatre tasting menu
ezard has definitely got to be one of my favourite restaurants in Melbourne. I love the style of food presented at this contemporary Mod Oz restaurant and every dish is always a delight to look at and consume. I recently visited ezard before heading off to see Wicked at the Regent and was lucky enough to sample the pre-theatre menu and a couple of glasses of excellent wine to match.
The pre-theatre menu starts off with a beautiful light course of kingfish sashimi. It is served thinly sliced, layered with a small quantity of creamy sesame custard and a julienne of fresh pears. The plate is finished with a lime dressing and some droplets of sticky caramel. Delightful textures and pretty as a picture. I can't complain about this course.
The next course is this stunning presentation of wild mushroom tortelli. The single pasta cylinder rests upon a rectangle of sweet wagyu salami and the construction is completed with a soft herb salad and a crisp deep fried lotus root chip. The smell is amazing as the dish is finished with real truffle oil and an intense mushroom jus. The pasta is perfect. When broken into a filling of finely diced mushrooms is revealed and together with the truffle oil and salad elements it really is a delight to eat.
The main course presentation is the sichuan peppered duck. Served with a slight pinkness the meat is perfectly tender and has beautifully rendered skin. The accompaniments are some wok-tossed silkmelon, an amazing coconut rice that I probably enjoy a little too much and its all finished with a sweet, sticky coconut and tumeric dressing. The dish has not changed a lot over the past few years, but like a couple of the other menu stalwarts it has been tweaked a little to remain interesting.
The series ends with a light dessert option. A sphere of refreshing granny smith apple sorbet with some apple crisps and a gingerbread crunch crumbled around the plate. A nice way to cleanse the palette and end an excellent meal.
The pre-theatre menu at ezard regularly changes and costs $65 for four courses, which represents fair value. The courses are degustation sized as opposed to what you may receive if you order a la carte and you will consequently leave satisfied, rather than stuffed. All done with impeccable timing as well leaving you with plenty of time to get you to your show.
ezard reamins one of my favourite places to eat. The service is amongst the best in the business, the food is creative and original and the experience is one which I always thoroughly enjoy. Quite possibly my favourite restaurant in Melbourne. Consistently excellent.
MY RATING: 18/20 - Food 9/10 Service 4.5/5 Ambience 4.5/5 - Hard to fault in almost any aspect. Definitely one of Melbourne's best.
Ezard has previously been comprehensively reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here
The pre-theatre menu starts off with a beautiful light course of kingfish sashimi. It is served thinly sliced, layered with a small quantity of creamy sesame custard and a julienne of fresh pears. The plate is finished with a lime dressing and some droplets of sticky caramel. Delightful textures and pretty as a picture. I can't complain about this course.
The next course is this stunning presentation of wild mushroom tortelli. The single pasta cylinder rests upon a rectangle of sweet wagyu salami and the construction is completed with a soft herb salad and a crisp deep fried lotus root chip. The smell is amazing as the dish is finished with real truffle oil and an intense mushroom jus. The pasta is perfect. When broken into a filling of finely diced mushrooms is revealed and together with the truffle oil and salad elements it really is a delight to eat.
The main course presentation is the sichuan peppered duck. Served with a slight pinkness the meat is perfectly tender and has beautifully rendered skin. The accompaniments are some wok-tossed silkmelon, an amazing coconut rice that I probably enjoy a little too much and its all finished with a sweet, sticky coconut and tumeric dressing. The dish has not changed a lot over the past few years, but like a couple of the other menu stalwarts it has been tweaked a little to remain interesting.
The series ends with a light dessert option. A sphere of refreshing granny smith apple sorbet with some apple crisps and a gingerbread crunch crumbled around the plate. A nice way to cleanse the palette and end an excellent meal.
The pre-theatre menu at ezard regularly changes and costs $65 for four courses, which represents fair value. The courses are degustation sized as opposed to what you may receive if you order a la carte and you will consequently leave satisfied, rather than stuffed. All done with impeccable timing as well leaving you with plenty of time to get you to your show.
ezard reamins one of my favourite places to eat. The service is amongst the best in the business, the food is creative and original and the experience is one which I always thoroughly enjoy. Quite possibly my favourite restaurant in Melbourne. Consistently excellent.
MY RATING: 18/20 - Food 9/10 Service 4.5/5 Ambience 4.5/5 - Hard to fault in almost any aspect. Definitely one of Melbourne's best.
Ezard has previously been comprehensively reviewed by Melbourne Foodie here
Labels: Ezard, REVIEWS: Fine Dining
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Ezard (City)
I recently had the opportunity to have dinner at one of my favourite restaurants. A place which I had somehow managed to neglect for a number of months and was seriously starting to crave. That restaurant is none other than Teague Ezard’s first child, the aptly named Ezard.
Ezard is snugly located at the base of the Adelphi hotel on Flinders Lane, and is the classic example of a Modern Australian restaurant, showcasing fresh produce cooked with flair. The food is inspiring and always intrigues the taste buds thanks to the use of ingredients such as coriander, lime and chilli, along with many other South-east Asian influences, which lead to the creation of truly memorable dishes with big flavours. The whole experience is undoubtedly one of Melbourne’s finest: amazing food, coupled with seamless service and a comfortable atmosphere to match it. The setting is sophisticated with comfortable seating and banquettes, thick white tablecloths, high quality serving-ware and a modern classy feel displayed throughout.
Tonight I choose to order from the a la carte menu, forgoing my usual degustation experience, which I must add is always a fabulous option here. I am sure I will return soon and blog about it.
The evening begins with my aperitif of choice, Lilet Blanc and whilst I ponder the menu I enjoy the bread and fabulous condiments, all of which are house-made. Three dishes sit on the table for one’s enjoyment: chilli-rock sugar, nori-flecked salt, and prickly ash (a house ground blend of toasted salt and Szechuan pepper). Along with Ezard’s incredible garlic, parmesan and rosemary oil (almost a good enough reason to return in itself), the condiments are greatly enjoyed and give you an insight into the tastes to come.
Before moving on to the food proper one simply has to order the signature shooters. Throughout most of the year a freshly shucked oyster shooter is offered, but as oysters are spawning at the moment and not at their best, I am told, Ezard has a variation for a short time – a kingfish shooter. At $4.50 each they are simply not to be missed. A lovely mound of freshly minced kingfish tartare, sits in a reduced mirin broth, and is served along with a nori roll to refresh the palate afterwards. A great flavour combination and a must-try taste experience. I am lucky enough to be offered “guinea pig” status and also receive a new interpretation of the shooter with frozen granita on the bottom and foam on top – WOW! – It needs a little refinement in regards to the granita placement and timing to ensure the fish does not freeze, but it’s a novel idea and is pretty special nonetheless. As well as this an amuse bouche of smoked salmon with sterling caviar sits on the plate, compliments of the chef. A rather classy way to start the meal.
Entrée: “Salt and pepper squid on iceberg salad ” $21 – I go for an entrée special, which my waiter highly recommends. The bowl contains about six strips of lightly coated salt and pepper squid tubes sitting atop a tangy Thai inspired iceberg lettuce and micro herb salad with a sweet, tangy, chilli broth. An excellent combination of flavours and a delicious moorish way to start the meal. The squid is perfectly tender and the salt and pepper in the batter is prevalent but not so over the top as to result in a sodium overload. A very well-conceived starter that is of a totally different class to what you may expect at you local Asian restaurant.
To drink: 2005 Donhoff Riesling
Main: “Master stock fried pork hock” $40 - This dish is a menu stalwart at Ezard, which has gradually been refined, and remains one of those amazing dishes you find on a menu. Sitting on a plate is a large hock of pork, which has been slowly poached in master stock, then fried until the skin is crisp and finished with a chilli-caramel top. The pork is extremely tender and falls apart inside. The skin is wafer thin and unbelievably crisp and sweet, coated in a crisp chilli caramel, and in between there is a wonderful gelatinous layer that just dissolves in your mouth. All the layers of the pork work well together, to create a sublime taste experience. The accompanying salad adds creativity and Asian elements to the dish consisting largely of bean shoots, mint, herbs and chilli along with a well-conceived dressing that balances sweet, sour and spicy elements to make the dish exciting and memorable. On a whole this is probably one of the best pork dishes you will likely find anywhere, and the combination of flavours ensure that every last mouthful is savoured. The pork is also accompanied with a bowl of fragrant Jasmine rice, which I opt to substitute for the creamed coconut rice. This rice is astoundingly good and will always keep me coming back for more. It is like no other rice I have ever tried, and is another reason in itself to return.
Side Dish. “Heirloom Tomato Salad” $10.50 - A simple fresh salad of sliced heirloom (open-pollinated) tomatoes with micro cresses, and some creamy Persian fetta. The waiter recommends sprinkling the tomatoes with the nori-flecked salt from the condiments tray, which works wonderfully and adds a peppery element to the salad, without overwhelming or distracting from the sweetness of the tomatoes. So simple and clever.
Having eaten at Ezard many times I can also thoroughly recommend the duck, wagyu beef, sea bass and just about everything else on the menu. Every dish is special in its own right and proves to be a cut above the typical fare that you might find at most suburban restaurants.
Dessert: “Caramel parfait with peanut and chocolate crunch, apple confit and blackberry jam” $21 – On one side of the plate sits the parfait, which is more or less a good creamy caramel ice-cream, sandwiched in between two crunchy bitter-sweet rectangles of peanut and chocolate brittle/ crunch. On the other is a deconstructed confit apple, which has been thinly sliced and re-assembled with some sweet sultanas. Finishing touches include fresh blackberries and a smooth blackberry “jam”. To be honest I didn’t quite see the connection between all of the elements in this dessert. Some parts were sweet and other bitter – perhaps slightly mismatched. It was a good dessert, but not exceptional. It should be noted though that most of the desserts I have had here at Ezard have been exceptional, such as a clever artichoke and truffle crème brulee or the delectable honey crunch ice-cream. As a whole though, this dessert was not one of the best options, although the parfait itself was well enjoyed.
Ezard is an excellent dining experience suitable for all occasions. With amazing food, top class service and all the little touches that ensure your night is perfect, why wouldn’t you want to keep coming back?
Ezard received a score of 17 out of 20 in the 2008 Age Good Food Guide and was awarded two chefs hats.
My Score: 18.5/20 – Highly Recommended – One of Melbourne’s best!
Food: 9/10 (Creative, stimulating Asian-influenced modern food)
Service: 5/5 (Possibly Melbourne’s best and most professional service)
Ambience: 4.5/5 (Comfortable, cosy – some may like tables to be a little wider spaced).
Ezard is snugly located at the base of the Adelphi hotel on Flinders Lane, and is the classic example of a Modern Australian restaurant, showcasing fresh produce cooked with flair. The food is inspiring and always intrigues the taste buds thanks to the use of ingredients such as coriander, lime and chilli, along with many other South-east Asian influences, which lead to the creation of truly memorable dishes with big flavours. The whole experience is undoubtedly one of Melbourne’s finest: amazing food, coupled with seamless service and a comfortable atmosphere to match it. The setting is sophisticated with comfortable seating and banquettes, thick white tablecloths, high quality serving-ware and a modern classy feel displayed throughout.
Tonight I choose to order from the a la carte menu, forgoing my usual degustation experience, which I must add is always a fabulous option here. I am sure I will return soon and blog about it.
The evening begins with my aperitif of choice, Lilet Blanc and whilst I ponder the menu I enjoy the bread and fabulous condiments, all of which are house-made. Three dishes sit on the table for one’s enjoyment: chilli-rock sugar, nori-flecked salt, and prickly ash (a house ground blend of toasted salt and Szechuan pepper). Along with Ezard’s incredible garlic, parmesan and rosemary oil (almost a good enough reason to return in itself), the condiments are greatly enjoyed and give you an insight into the tastes to come.
Before moving on to the food proper one simply has to order the signature shooters. Throughout most of the year a freshly shucked oyster shooter is offered, but as oysters are spawning at the moment and not at their best, I am told, Ezard has a variation for a short time – a kingfish shooter. At $4.50 each they are simply not to be missed. A lovely mound of freshly minced kingfish tartare, sits in a reduced mirin broth, and is served along with a nori roll to refresh the palate afterwards. A great flavour combination and a must-try taste experience. I am lucky enough to be offered “guinea pig” status and also receive a new interpretation of the shooter with frozen granita on the bottom and foam on top – WOW! – It needs a little refinement in regards to the granita placement and timing to ensure the fish does not freeze, but it’s a novel idea and is pretty special nonetheless. As well as this an amuse bouche of smoked salmon with sterling caviar sits on the plate, compliments of the chef. A rather classy way to start the meal.
Entrée: “Salt and pepper squid on iceberg salad ” $21 – I go for an entrée special, which my waiter highly recommends. The bowl contains about six strips of lightly coated salt and pepper squid tubes sitting atop a tangy Thai inspired iceberg lettuce and micro herb salad with a sweet, tangy, chilli broth. An excellent combination of flavours and a delicious moorish way to start the meal. The squid is perfectly tender and the salt and pepper in the batter is prevalent but not so over the top as to result in a sodium overload. A very well-conceived starter that is of a totally different class to what you may expect at you local Asian restaurant.
To drink: 2005 Donhoff Riesling
Main: “Master stock fried pork hock” $40 - This dish is a menu stalwart at Ezard, which has gradually been refined, and remains one of those amazing dishes you find on a menu. Sitting on a plate is a large hock of pork, which has been slowly poached in master stock, then fried until the skin is crisp and finished with a chilli-caramel top. The pork is extremely tender and falls apart inside. The skin is wafer thin and unbelievably crisp and sweet, coated in a crisp chilli caramel, and in between there is a wonderful gelatinous layer that just dissolves in your mouth. All the layers of the pork work well together, to create a sublime taste experience. The accompanying salad adds creativity and Asian elements to the dish consisting largely of bean shoots, mint, herbs and chilli along with a well-conceived dressing that balances sweet, sour and spicy elements to make the dish exciting and memorable. On a whole this is probably one of the best pork dishes you will likely find anywhere, and the combination of flavours ensure that every last mouthful is savoured. The pork is also accompanied with a bowl of fragrant Jasmine rice, which I opt to substitute for the creamed coconut rice. This rice is astoundingly good and will always keep me coming back for more. It is like no other rice I have ever tried, and is another reason in itself to return.
Side Dish. “Heirloom Tomato Salad” $10.50 - A simple fresh salad of sliced heirloom (open-pollinated) tomatoes with micro cresses, and some creamy Persian fetta. The waiter recommends sprinkling the tomatoes with the nori-flecked salt from the condiments tray, which works wonderfully and adds a peppery element to the salad, without overwhelming or distracting from the sweetness of the tomatoes. So simple and clever.
Having eaten at Ezard many times I can also thoroughly recommend the duck, wagyu beef, sea bass and just about everything else on the menu. Every dish is special in its own right and proves to be a cut above the typical fare that you might find at most suburban restaurants.
Dessert: “Caramel parfait with peanut and chocolate crunch, apple confit and blackberry jam” $21 – On one side of the plate sits the parfait, which is more or less a good creamy caramel ice-cream, sandwiched in between two crunchy bitter-sweet rectangles of peanut and chocolate brittle/ crunch. On the other is a deconstructed confit apple, which has been thinly sliced and re-assembled with some sweet sultanas. Finishing touches include fresh blackberries and a smooth blackberry “jam”. To be honest I didn’t quite see the connection between all of the elements in this dessert. Some parts were sweet and other bitter – perhaps slightly mismatched. It was a good dessert, but not exceptional. It should be noted though that most of the desserts I have had here at Ezard have been exceptional, such as a clever artichoke and truffle crème brulee or the delectable honey crunch ice-cream. As a whole though, this dessert was not one of the best options, although the parfait itself was well enjoyed.
Ezard is an excellent dining experience suitable for all occasions. With amazing food, top class service and all the little touches that ensure your night is perfect, why wouldn’t you want to keep coming back?
Ezard received a score of 17 out of 20 in the 2008 Age Good Food Guide and was awarded two chefs hats.
My Score: 18.5/20 – Highly Recommended – One of Melbourne’s best!
Food: 9/10 (Creative, stimulating Asian-influenced modern food)
Service: 5/5 (Possibly Melbourne’s best and most professional service)
Ambience: 4.5/5 (Comfortable, cosy – some may like tables to be a little wider spaced).
Labels: Ezard, REVIEWS: Fine Dining
